by oldmansurfer » Thu Jul 09, 2015 10:44 pm
I can't look at your video any more but if you understand weighting and unweighting then what you could do on the second wave is to add weight to the first bottom turn by standing as you go down the wave then crouching as you hit the bottom (using your weight to put more pressure into the turn) and make your bottom turn, the extra force from dropping your body as you hit the bottom is then translated into lateral momentum by the turn, then unweight and jump forward and to the top of the wave and repeat. So by weighting and unweighting you add forward momentum to the bottom turn and forward momentum coming out of the bottom turn then doing a series of speed turns where you hit the top of the wave and immediately push the front of the board back down the wave by adjusting your weight to your front foot till you hit the bottom then switch to your back foot. So for speed you actively press the board down the wave and unweight or jump back up the face in quick succession. You are also jumping forward or unweighting forward so that you keep momentum going down the line. If you get really good at speed turns you will find on smaller waves like that you will keep your center of mass in front of the wave so as you are turning you are leaning forward and falling forward and down the line and your board will move from the top to the bottom but your center of mass will stay similarly aligned. Essentially all the turns are your legs moving up and down the wave while most of your body stays in the same configuration in relation to the wave.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.