If the surf is 2’ or under I am fine, catching my share of waves, since there is little to no competition. However, now I find myself out in the lineup on bigger days, which can be really fun, but mostly frustrating. I can be sitting on the outside, with maybe four other surfers, and as set approaches, everyone paddles for positioning, and I am usually the last one to find the right spot, and I miss the wave. No problem, I just catch the next one. Not… the other two guys got that one. Now set has gone by, well maybe next set. No, the same guys are back again, and the cycle keeps repeating itself.
So, what’s the solution? Paddle hard, get to the curl faster. Given my current level of fitness, I don’t see a remedy. (Working on it!) Go surfing more often? (Working on that too) Go to a new spot? Always looking for the right spot, but everywhere accessible seems so packed. Tried one spot, I thought it might break, and waited 30 minutes, for no waves.
It is really frustrating to go out for over an hour and catch only 3 waves. On a really small or rarely uncrowded day, I might get 6-8 waves, so I am not lighting it up, but it’s a lot more fun. I won’t even go to the bigger spots locally, so many surfers they look like ants in the water. I realize the surfers on the inside get even fewer rides usually, but they are mostly beginners at this spot.
So any ideas on how to solve the crowded lineup problem?
