Wave Disputes

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Re: Wave Disputes

Postby oldmansurfer » Sat May 30, 2015 10:47 pm

One of my favorite stories and I probably posted it here before but when I was at UH I surfed around waikiki are a bit. I used to walk from my dorm room often, it took me 20 or so minutes of fast walking. Usually I surfed a break called 3's or 4's if 3's was too crowded but on this day Alamoana bowl was slamming and I thought maybe I would go there so I paddled across the Alawai canal entrance to Magic Island and walked out to check out the break. It was super crowded and there were guys dropping in and fights happening all over. Not my thing. I walked to the other side of the island and there was a perfect tubing right with only 5 guys out. I thought OMG this is even better than the bowl and only 5 guys, 10 to 12 foot faces ...How lucky am I? I paddled out there and the 5 guys did this thing where one of them would paddle around me and then when a wave came in they would padldle for it till I quit paddling for it then they would back off and the guy down the line would take off. I finally decided to keep paddling till the deep guy had to take the drop or back off and he would eat it 3 out of four waves but get a real good ride on the fourth one. I managed to catch a wave or two but even then the pickings were slim. There was a set wave that broke outside of all of us about every 15 minutes so I figured I would go wait for that wave since there was no hasseling.

The first set to come in I took off on and got tubed and when I came out there was one of the guys paddling up the face of the wave right in my way, so I jammed a hard trun right next to him and totally sprayed him came back down in kind of a fade back got tubed again and came out. This time there was another one of the guys in my way so I jammed a turn right next to him and showed him the bottom of my board, giving him a shower no extra charge. I did the same kind of a fade back slash back maneuver and got tubed again and when I came out another guy was paddling on the wave so I figured what the heck I jammed a turn and sprayed that guy and got tubed again. So now I am thinking there are still more guys I didn't spray yet so I come out and there is another, spray him and get tubed come out and there is no one so I do the same turn get tubed and it closed out on me on the inside.

I paddle back out and they paddle over to me and I think I am going to have to fight them now but they just stop and say "We wanted to let you know we were going to let you catch waves now." So I spent the rest of the day chatting with them and surfing and never caught another wave like that one but I did get tubed again on a couple waves.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Wave Disputes

Postby Big H » Sun May 31, 2015 12:11 am

Nice read OMS!
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Re: Wave Disputes

Postby jaffa1949 » Sun May 31, 2015 1:25 am

"She lost her tube top on a good size set" Paging IB Surfer, paging IB Surfer!!!~ :shock: :lol:

I hate to say it but some nationalities are more rabid in the surf than others, and then there are individuals of whatever, race, nation or ethnic group that are self entitled.
A typical great way the Balinese handle Bule ( read Hoale, Gaijin, Gweilo, tourists, rubbernecks) without a direct confrontation. Seen it many times :lol:
I've taken up troll hunting just for fun, instead of a rifle I'll just use a pun! 冲浪爷爷
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Re: Wave Disputes

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun May 31, 2015 3:35 am

Big H wrote:Nice read OMS!

I hate crowds and hassling but they sometimes push me into some of the best waves I have ever ridden. I am pretty sure if they weren't there to motivate me I would have taken an easier route and probably not gotten so many tubes on the same wave. I didn't have the wave knowledge skills to figure out how to ride that wave but came across the ideal maneuver by accident. This wave while it is one of my all time favorite waves it wasn't a clean beautiful tube but wet with chandeliers and I was swallowed up by the foam ball each time but came out still completely covered. It was great for the number of times I got tubed and for the satisfaction of spraying 4 of the 5 guys
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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