Beginner hollow wave board

[benjl]

hahaha. Oh mate.. what a pain in the ass! What's the ETA on getting the actual one you wanted? I'm just hanging out to hear what you think of it!

[dtc]

Ah but it's also for the image dtc other people will notice and that's important..lol how many bikini tops have you had thrown at you coz of your manky curtains eh? Eh??!

I am being a trifle hypocritical about ignoring colour given that this is my custom board...

IMAG0420.jpg (65.93 KiB) Viewed 559 times

[oldmansurfer]

what is the round thing on the nose?

[benjl]

what is the round thing on the nose?

I think the nat young model of the bic longboard has the same thing to some extent. I imagine it creates some sort of lift to help with nose riding?

[dtc]

what is the round thing on the nose?

benjl has it - its a nose concave - the shaper says "Here we have a nose concave like no other available----an integral part of the whole design. Rather than blending gradually into the bottom---the concave’s perimeter is deliberately abrupt with a tangible lip. Why? When forward trimming-- downward pressure on the nose from the surfers weight brings this lip into direct water contact. The resulting turbulence creates strong uplift---compensating for their weight and allowing for noseriding (10 over if you’re having an on day)...even on a 7’0’ board. The unique look of this concave is one thing--- but feeling is believing"

To be honest, with a 7ft4 board and me at 80kg, the noseriding efforts have pretty much been a failure, although I don't surf many waves that are particularly suitable either. I discussed with the shaper smoothing out the concave, but he said it was still beneficial with lift and being able to get forward for more speed if I wanted and he is the expert, so I left it.

[oldmansurfer]

When I used to paipo board I experimented with concave bottoms and found a single concave in the nose that goes through a channel then spreads out over the back of the board creates speed but that one looks like it's meant for lift only and only if you are on the nose......although I wonder if it will make it easier to paddle into a wave or help to keep it from pearling.

[dtc]

Yeah, It's a de facto nose rocker in a way, although it's a pretty flat board overall other than a largish tail rocker for steep take offs. There are some more standard concaves as you go back to the fins.

To be honest I respect the shaper highly and this is his standard design (plus some extra tail rocker) so I followed his advice. Whether the concave is a plus or minus I don't really know, but the board is great and I surf it about 75% of the time at the moment. Have another board I use for steeper (low tide) waves and which I prefer on bigger (head high +) waves, but the one in the picture is still ok in bigger waves so long as you adjust a little bit eg no surfing out into the flats before bottom turning or it will nose dive due to the flat rocker

[Jester]

For some reason I want to go out and shop at united colours of Benetton after seeing your board!!

Think I'm going to wimp out and get the 7'6. Then if I become really good quickly I can probably go visit the shop and buy the repaired 7'2 at a reduced price!

Orrr... I could go for this one.

[dtc]

Well, you won't lose it

[Jester]

The guys at the shop have got back to me..apparently they can get their devilish lill mitts on the board I want some time next week! Sooo.. Back to the 7'2!!

[Jester]

It's ARRIVED!! IT'S ACTUALLY BLOOMIN' HERE

[jaffa1949]

So level headed about the new board he's frothing from both sides of his mouth

[dtc]

Wow, it looks so small...

I looked at the new board and thought "wow, it looks so big"

You and your 5ft8 board...

Jester, the pop up will be easy. Its just catching the wave that is hard. Oh, learning to sit on a shorter narrower board can also be a humbling experience for the first few occasions, but you pick it up quickly. Soon you will be marvelling that you ever surfed the Bic and wondering whether you should get a 6ft8 fish or just go to a 6ft6 shortboard.

Jaffa, don't you use a non wax board topping, if Jester really wanted to avoid waxing?

When is the first surf?

[jaffa1949]

Yes I do use a grip not wax! Versa grip from Riley surfboards, whether it is available in Ireland
I am pretty sure Riley do international orders.