drowningbitbybit wrote:One of the biggest ever paddle-in waves ever surfed? /
Doesn't count unless you ride it all the way to the end...
(there are people who are missing a gene, I think. the fear gene. One of my friend's 9yr olds boys is like that - stop looking at him for 2 minutes and he will climb a 70ft tree or onto the roof of the house or try to see whether he can break through a window by running at it. He will be a big wave surfer, except he doenst understand why you should bother to learn to swim when you can just let the wave ragdoll you back to shore)