Quite a few of our beginners have been asking questions about tides swell and wind direction so today offered a good chance to take some photos and show the differences on the same swell at either end of the same beach.
I am of the opinion that you need to get to know how swell , winds and direction of both effect your local beaches. That knowledge is vital to becoming a full surfer.
So

- Southern end lee shore beach.

- Northern end full side shore mess , one surfer out there

- South end again pleasant enough to be on the beach
It took multiple mobile phone calls for those that didn't know the local conditions to even get there to go out.
Local knowledge is the winner!

I've taken up troll hunting just for fun, instead of a rifle I'll just use a pun! 冲浪爷爷