Latest Surfs...

[oldmansurfer]

I went for my first surf of 2015. Missed new years day due to work and last weekend because I had a cold. Wow! I felt so deprived..... no surf for 2 weeks. Anyway nice conditions but small waves however I had the little waist high sandbar by the river mouth to myself cutting out by jumping off standing up. It was great to back in the ocean my gills were getting dry.

[Dwight]

Damn im jelly with you guys already surfing

[drowningbitbybit]

3ft of clean swell this morning... 33ºC air... 27ºC water... perfect...

...unfortunately everyone else thought so too and the jellyfish


Session ended with an impact with a longboard and a dinged board. Game over

[dtc]

Stupid longboarders....

But, ouch

[oldmansurfer]

I went out yesterday, the conditons were nice but the waves were small (waist high). I caught like 20 or so waves and I think one really nice one where the tail of my board got tubed. When I first got there a frigate bird was attempting to feed where I wanted to go. It would fly around then dive down into the water come back up and fly around again. It went away for a bit so I went out and during my time there i paddled right over a small school of fish, like maybe 6 or 8 fish which were 6 to 8 inches long. After a while I noticed the frigate bird was sitting out side of me looking at me. I realized I was interupting it's breakfast so I went in and it resumed feeding there.

[oldmansurfer]

I went out yesterday SUPing because there were no waves to speak of. I fell down 2 times and caught 3 waves so my skills have improved over the usual fall down 1287 times and catch one wave

[IanCaio]

Im back to the countryside for a few days before I can go back to the beach surf, but I had such a nice session this Sunday, almost couldnt sleep of joy
My shoulder is still recovering after 3 days of long periods of surfing, one of then on a little harder condition (harder for me as a begginer).

Heres a picture a guy took of the break a few days ago. This day I could only catch one wave, had a hard time passing the breaking zone, and the line up got even further away during the day. Even experienced ones were having trouble passing through the inside. Some jumped from the rocks.

[drowningbitbybit]

Surfed at Snapper tonight. Good powerful swell... clean waves... offshore... perfect barrels... but good lord, the crowds!

Found a little spot almost to myself, but definitely just getting the leftovers.

[oldmansurfer]

You should have been here http://www.mysurf.tv/categories/exclusive/522-the-best-sandbank-in-queensland-it-s-not-snapper-and-it-s-going-off

[drowningbitbybit]

Yup
Can't identify the spot... nowhere near the Gold Coast, that's for sure.

Although Snapper was, you know, alright too
http://www.mysurf.tv/categories/exclusi ... -ola-goods

That, however, was so not like how my session was
That Snapper video was the day before (Wednesday), when the size of the waves kept the crowd down (the video doesn't really show the size - the wind was off and on all day, so it must have been one of the cleaner smaller periods). By the time I was there, it was back to manageable levels and everyone was there!

[dtc]

DBB, aren't you the blonde guy in that video from oldman?

[oldmansurfer]

That is some nice surf.... just the leftovers might be pretty decent. That size over here and everyone is out .....sigh.....I can recall when my friends were telling me I should learn to surf so they could have someone to go surf all these breaks with.....now with 200 guys out, there are probably a few guys they know and can hang out with. Lucky for me I have an uncrowded break that is right down the hill from my house to go to.

[drowningbitbybit]

Small clean waves on offer this morning. Surfed the beachie rather than the point to avoid the sunday crowds. Had a fun little session on tiny waves - about the right level for someone who was still suffering a bit from the night before

[oldmansurfer]

It's another SUP day for me but some of the other beach goers had a motorized winch pulling themselves down the beach. Looked fun but I am too old to try stuff like that...which means I might seriously get hurt

[Jester]

Had an awesome lill surf in lahinch on the wkend. Felt so out of shape after not being in the water for a few weeks. It was a cold grey Irish day but the swell was a handy if small 2-3ft every 13 seconds, super chilled out back chatting with all the guys and watching the mist over the cliffs of moher roll in.

Caught some sexy lill waves and coz I was having a lesson I then had to unlearn some bad habits that were apparently holding me back! Felt like it was day 1 but stuck with it and could see there was some wisdom behind the new technique. Was frustrating though and after not catching a wave the 'new' way I felt like "sod it" and reverted to my tried and trusted just for one wave. Caught it beautiful and had an insane long run!!! Turned, cut back, turned again and again. Didn't know what I was doing but suddenly the wave was about to peter out and then picked up a new face and Hey Presto!! New green wave super SUPER stoked!! Energy levels instantly recharged, happy-meter on FULL went back to working on the new way with a renewed buzz.. Sometimes just sometimes, like Bond was advised 'the old ways are best'

[Jester]

First time ever surfing a reef today, dear Jimminy cricket it's a lot easier to get out!! The whole deal is better by far actually 7ft clean faces but I was a noob and just there for the experience so got out of everyone's way and just picked up scraps, great day though! Caught two or three. Bit crowded and I gotta learn to paddle faster!!!

[Jester]

Lahinch today! Like summer

[oldmansurfer]

I went SUP again today. There were a few other SUPers out as well as a huge stingray close to shore. It was maybe 4 feet across and weighed maybe 150 pounds. Here is my beach today

[Jester]

Two days in a row and it felt amazing to get back in the water!! Back at my 'local' break of tramore where the waves were insanely messy and full of slop-chop mush. Some contrast from yesterday but just to be out was great.
I feel my paddling coming on and sense a small improvement of strength there. Bought a cool Chinese version of a gopro and was so excited to attach it to my board!!
Managed to catch a few today despite there being basically no break..even hit a green section!! The camera was great fun and I've been reviewing my footage and analysing my pop up and stance which is kinda why I got it..that And the fact that as I walked out all the kids were saying "is that an underwater camera?..Coooool!!" Haha I'm pretty stoked with it actually.
May post a video of the only decent ride I got today if I can work it out later..

Anyway fun day despite crap waves

[drowningbitbybit]

Out at the point today... the calm before the storm... 10-12ft+, cyclone winds and flooding forecast for later this week, so getting in the ocean while I can... except it wasn't that calm

4ft and 6ft on sets, cross-wind and a bit disorganised. An awful lot of paddling to stay in position - so I didn't, I let the current take me where it wanted to, happy in the knowledge that I'd get to another peak in another minute or two

Caught a couple of big ones (badly - foot position was wrong and I was committed to the wave, but stuck low on the face), a few middling ones, and then finally one great clean one.

And stop.

Always finish on a good wave