by oldmansurfer » Tue Dec 23, 2014 6:11 pm
I forgot to mention the position on the wave. On a steep wave there is what I call a power pocket where the maximum forward momentum can be had. This is high on the wave just below the lip. It may be difficult for a surfer to get there on smaller waves but perhaps this is one functional reason I see for nose riding because on a small wave it puts the board right in that pocket. Other than that I am sure if you tube ride 6 foot plus waves a lot then you probably experienced it where you are high on the wave in a tube and the tip of your board is pointed down the wave at an angle but your board is moving sideways really fast. I first experienced this paipo boarding and made incredible tube rides by being really high up in really huge tubes. The first time I experienced it surfing I was so excited I talked to other surfers about it and they knew exactly what I was talking about. If you watch pro surfing you always hear the commentators talk about the surfers getting really high on certain tubular waves to make it out. That is the power pocket which speeds you up to maximum speed . The closer you can get to it the faster you will go. So generally if you hold position on a wave without turning then the higher you are the faster you will go (if there is a steep wall). You can't do much turns in a tube due to the limited space so the best you can do while in the tube is small speed turns although I did figure out how to do a big backside speed turn in a tube. So most of your speed in a tube comes from positioning on the wave and perhaps what you have generated prior to getting tubed.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.