by dtc » Mon Oct 13, 2014 11:04 pm
What everyone at your level needs is to catch and ride as many waves as possible, not to spend time bobbing around imagining making snap top turns and cutbacks. That will come, but only after a lot (an awful lot) of surfing time. So buy the board that (within your self imposed limitations) means you catch as many waves as possible.
The best board for this, and the usual advice, is to go for a longboard, but if you are determined not to go much over 7ft then I would recommend a mini mal thats 7ft. There are plenty around - the wider nose and thicker/wider board, flat rocker etc is what you need - easier paddling/wave catching/stability. A minimal wont work on head high+ waves (ie 8ft faces) but is perfect for anything up to 6ft faces. Epoxy or PU, it probably doesnt matter too much. Second hand is fine. Another option is a large fish, like a 7S Superfish. But stay at 7ft or longer, stay wide (21 inches+), stay thick (2 5/8+ probably, if not thicker)
Dont go too small, too thin, too much rocker. Sure those boards have higher performance, but they require a higher skill threshold just to be used in the first place. If the rider doesnt have the skills to use them, its just hours of struggling instead of hours of surfing.
Here is my skiing analogy: imagine the surfboard is like the mountain. When you start off, you want to go the green and blue runs. Sure there are limitations on what you can do on those runs, but its more important to get the skills than to ski somewhere with the potential to do amazing things, which you can't do, and you can still ski at a high level on these runs. The green and blue runs are the long boards and mini mals. If you went straight to a double black run, where all the experts are doing jumps and powder turns and what not, as a beginner you arent going to be doing what they are doing. Rather you will actually be struggling and not having fun and not really skiing at all. The black runs are the 'shortboards' (from a beginner's perspective).
Start off with a good board suited to learning and advancing. In maybe 12 months or longer, you will want - as all surfers do - to get a new board. Even if you dont need one, you will want one. Its part of surfing. At that time you will know what works for you and what doesnt, what you like doing and so forth. Then you get your second board, which might be more of a shorter board, narrower nose etc. The you get your third, and 4th and 15th....