by peazz » Sun Aug 31, 2014 1:25 am
You have one thing right, determination.
Everyone here told me not to go to short when I started out yet as I told them (jaffa and dbb alike) I have the determination to succeed and improve, 7 months down the line I was surfing a shortboard just 2" taller then my self and ripping aussie waves.
What I am trying to say is keep that determination, get in the water as often as you can, study videos, other surfers in the water and push yourself as much as you can, if you really truly want something then it will come with time but as with all things u need to be willing to put in the effort.
Im sorry I cant give you direct advise, but maybe I shown you that anything is possible with a little motivation and determination.
PS, the one bit of advise I can give you is surf every condition possible, from blown out slop to clean perfect lines - my surfing really took leaps and bounds when the conditions were not ideal because it forces you to think on your feet and adapt to new conditions.
Its just you and the heart beat of the earth, that moment when u take the drop nothing else matters your mind is completely free of all material thought processes. Your human.