Barking up the wrong board or nature of the beast?

[bajoman]

I've been trying to dial in the right shortboard for myself and I'm wondering if I went in the wrong direction OR if my experiences are what is to be expected (in comparison with the other types of boards I ride). First off, I'm in NY, on the East coast of the US, where it's generally lacking in size, shape and power, so I started off about 5 years ago doing a lot of longboarding (and still do) but added a 7' superfish, a 5'5 mini-simmons, and a 5'11 hybrid simmons-ish board. My ideal quiver for limited space/apartment living is 1.Longboard 2.Shortboard and 3.Longboard Substitute (for easy travel and throwing in the car).

Since I'm older (42), have liked boards that paddle well and generate a lot of speed on their own (without pumping), and have enjoyed the looseness and glide of single fins and twin fins, I picked up a 5'11 Von Sol Shadow quad for my shortboard. It is supposed to be a "quiver-killer" fishy hybrid with a relaxed rocker, a lot of width (almost 21") and volume (probably around 30-35L) but with a rounded-pin tail for hold in bigger stuff. Problem is, I only enjoy surfing it when the waves are super clean, more than waist-high, and have considerable power (that's usually about 5% of the surfable days). Admittedly it's more sinky, doesn't paddle as well as the other boards and limits my wave selection, but my trouble is not really catching waves (it gets in pretty well), its more like getting the drive and speed (after a necessarily later drop) to stay in the sloppier or smaller stuff and make sections, resulting in much shorter, frustrating one-turn rides. Is this just the challenge of riding a "true" shortboard (I don't have the same problems on my 2 simmonsy boards) or should I be looking for a more conventional (longer?thruster?) shortboard??? Any suggestions? I'm 6'0, 165lbs, with good fitness level. Thanks!

[bajoman]

P.S. I forgot to add the link to the shortboard I'm talking about, the Von Sol Shadow: http://www.vonsol.com/surfboards/highperformance_surfboards/TheShadow.html
Mine is 5'11 x 20 15/16 x 2 5/8 and I use the Stiletto quad fin set, but I also set it up with the Phantom twins (that set-up is super fast but doesn't really resolve any of my aforementioned issues).

[oldmansurfer]

Just a guess but maybe you need to adjust your footing on the 5'11" board. Maybe you need to stand a little back from where you are standing. I have 2 similar boards one longer than the other and I found that when I went on the longer board I tried to keep the nose of the board in the same place as the shorter board which meant I stood up more forward on the board and I had a hard time turning the board. I scooted a little back when paddling for a wave and this made me stand back a little and that fixed it for me.

[jaffa1949]

Ahh ! The "old one size fits all" sales pitch, except surf stores call them quiver killers!
Let's go back to basics for your length and volume, get you able to glide through less powerful spots on a wave where a low volume bogs, low volume means the surfer is working hard to both find and use the little pockets of power and speed on a wave. The shorter board fits the crumbly pockets better but only does that if the surfer can read them as they occur! Longer boards can glide on the energy gained and cross flat spots to the next pocket of power usually that is more horizontal than the vertical hunting ground of a short board.

The real basics are ; take your boards to the beach and review what you do thoroughly, what works for you!

Look clearly at your own surfing the answer is there, in what you enjoy, not in some surf shop sales pitch.
How can they recommend if they haven't seen you surf, that could apply here too alas!

As to the nature of the beast unless you are an excellent rider , low volume is a myth, have a quiver! Just have boards in it that are less specialised .

[bajoman]

Thanks guys- I know I write too much info in these posts. Let me boil it down:
I don't have any problems surfing my shortboard in really good waves.
I love longboarding in everything. I love minisimmons in almost everything. I don't love shortboarding and it only really works for me in good waves.
***Would a different shortboard (maybe a 6'8 thruster of some sort) give me more appreciation for shortboarding, or is what I'm experiencing just the challenge of shortboarding?

[oldmansurfer]

There are three things that go into riding waves: the wave, the surfer and the board. Change any of those three variables and you change the outcome. I think you are stuck with having to experiment to figure out what works for you

[drowningbitbybit]

I don't have any problems surfing my shortboard in really good waves.

Shortboards are easy on perfect waves... that's when they fly, and I think that's what Jaffa was getting at - anything less than perfect and a shortboard needs to be worked, hard.
So what you're experiencing is just the nature of the beast.

In most shortboard quivers, there's a higher volume board for small/mushy/weak days. A lot of people go down the fish route, while others go down the "hybrid" shortboard route (or both). My usual board is a 6'2x20x2 5/8, but I also have a 6'10x21x2 7/8 for those less-than-perfect days. The bigger board will get into waves easier, and goes through the weaker sections better than the shorter board. The downside is that its less able to turn and manoeuvre in the pocket, but on balance its a better board on a mediocre day.

So yes, a 6'8 thruster will likely make shortboarding more fun. Choose carefully though as a lot of the fatboy shortboards are just cut down mini-mals, suitable for beginners moving to their first real board. Best to get a shaper to make you a proper performance-orientated high-volume shortboard.

[waikikikichan]

Let's try to clarify some of your understandings, so that you can later make more intelligent choices.

"Since I'm older (42), have liked boards that paddle well and generate a lot of speed on their own (without pumping)",
Then you shouldn't get a shortboard, since you need to pump them to create speed

" and have enjoyed the looseness and glide of single fins and twin fins"
Single fins are "stiff" and stable, while twin fins are "loose". That's why the 3 finned thruster have been the go to fin setup for the past 30+ years. ( quads, I wouldn't ride one if I didn't try thrusters first. I was using a Ben Aipa beveled rail, quad 9' longboard 25 years ago )

"I picked up a 5'11 Von Sol Shadow quad for my shortboard. It is supposed to be a "quiver-killer" fishy hybrid with a relaxed rocker, a lot of width (almost 21") and volume (probably around 30-35L) but with a rounded-pin tai**l for hold in bigger stuff )
Fish and Hybrids are not standard Short boards ( shorter board maybe, alternative board yes ). I would have not gotten another 5'11". something between your 7' and 5'11" would have been better.

"Problem is, I only enjoy surfing it when the waves are super clean, more than waist-high, and have considerable power (that's usually about 5% of the surfable days)"
Sounds like Short board conditions.

"its more like getting the drive and speed (after a necessarily later drop) to stay in the sloppier or smaller stuff and make sections, resulting in much shorter, frustrating one-turn rides"
You need to pump out of the bottom turn, you can't just lean on it like a single fin and wait for the fin to load up. With Quads you need to move the tail. Plus remember Pin tails** draw a longer arc, so you're taking too long to get around the curtain and the wave blows by you.

"Is this just the challenge of riding a "true" shortboard (I don't have the same problems on my 2 simmonsy boards) or should I be looking for a more conventional (longer?thruster?) shortboard???"
Again that board isn't close to a standard shortboard. If you having a fine time on the Simmons, why would you change ? Like the saying goes " if it ain't broke, don't fix it "

I would recommend a retro single with a nice beak nose to keep the volume up by the nose. ( you could add side-bite plugs, but it'll just add weight and cost that's just not worth it for 5% off the days you " might " use them. Youtube Joel Tudor and his 6'6" single.

[bajoman]

Much appreciated everybody! I learned a lot from your comments, especially the awesome point-by-point from Waikikichan! Thanks again!