Going Short

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Going Short

Postby Rocket » Mon Sep 08, 2014 5:18 pm

Hey y'all,

I'm thinking of going short from a 7'6. I really like the idea of a fish.Thing is, I only started surfing about 16weeks ago and don't want to mess up my progression!

I started on a custom minimal 7'6 x 21 1/2 x 2 7/8. Surfed twice a week, pop up comfortably, couldn't always get across the wave, but found it hard to carve (ie hadn't learnt the skill yet).

By chance, my board went into repair, so I borrowed my mates epoxy 7 x 20 1/2 x 2 5/8.m

After a total of 4 sessions I'm really comfortable popping up on the 7ft epoxy (took me a while to work out popping up in one go without the feet).

I catch waves ok, just have to paddle a little harder. It's probably a bit narrow for me but I manage. It loved the speed on it, found it lighter, but still not great at shifting the board to carve (again, I haven't learnt that skill yet). Felt great underfoot!

Now, I'm not sure if I want to go back to the 7'6!

And - I really like the idea of a fish as I can't see myself surfing big waves (I stick to 2-4ft). I like the idea of how a fish moves. But will it help me progress as it's looser, or will it do me over?

I'm going to have to hand the 7ft epoxy back soon.

So do I:

A) stick to the minimal until I can pull of some manvures on it?

B) sell the minimal to my other mate and get a 7ft board

C) sell the minimal and get a fish

D) keep the minimal and get a fish.

I'm 34, 5ft 11, 76kg and in good shape.

Sorry for the long post!

Thanks guys!
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Re: Going Short

Postby drowningbitbybit » Mon Sep 08, 2014 9:49 pm

Don't get too far ahead of yourself... Fishes are great for small waves, but they need to be worked to keep moving, they don't glide like a mini-mal will. So you need to get your skills up first - you need to be able to turn up and down the wave.
Fishes are also very loose, which is loads of fun, but with only 16 weeks surfing under your belt, will probably just translate as "wobbly".

So stick with your 7'6 for now and concentrate on getting those basic skills sorted. Once you've really nailed the basics, you'll probably be able to move straight down to a fish without going via an in inbetweeny board.
You'll probably find me surfing, but if not, I'll probably be in the photography studio
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Re: Going Short

Postby Iron Lee » Tue Sep 09, 2014 5:57 am

I started on a 7'6" mini mal just like you, 5 years ago. After a few years I went down to a 7'3" mal, and in my 5th year I am finally now just on boards 6' and under.
I have a 5'10" 2 3/4 21" twin fin fish, and a 6 3" 21" thruster modern fish. Both are eps / epoxy. I am 6' 195 lbs. I have to really paddle my ass off to catch a wave on these boards, but I do it.
So it might be a bit early for you, get really good on a mal, and then get an eps shortboard after that, but wide and thick so it's not such a departure from a mal. Even better; keep your mal and have the shorter board as well. I guess that's choice "D". Guess that's all!... :blah:
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Re: Going Short

Postby Rocket » Tue Sep 09, 2014 8:56 am

Drowningbitbybit - thank you, that sounds like sound advice. I've send plenty of riders pulling off tricks on longboards, so you're right - I'm getting ahead of myself!

Iron Lee - thanks for the advice, I'll build up my skills and build up a quiver (when im good enough!)

Thanks both!
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Re: Going Short

Postby waikikikichan » Tue Sep 09, 2014 11:48 am

How's your backside surfing ? If you are comfortable going frontside only, I wouldn't recommend moving down yet. If you stay on that board for 16 months, you'll be able to carve that fish shape better than someone who switch after only 16 weeks.
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Re: Going Short

Postby Rocket » Sun Sep 21, 2014 8:28 pm

Yeah, I was getting way to ahead of myself! ;) Ive got a LOT to learn. who was I kidding! I guess i needed someone to tell me NO! Thanks all :)
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Re: Going Short

Postby dtc » Mon Sep 22, 2014 12:49 am

Better to be enthusiastic than complacent. Everyone wants to try new boards, new things - maybe there is a board out there that will just 'work' (probably not, but no harm in looking...). But there are lots of advantages in just learning your existing board, getting used to how it moves and turns and catches waves and how to make those subtle weight changes. All things to build into the muscle memory, then you can flit amongst boards as fast as you can earn the money to buy them
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Re: Going Short

Postby oldmansurfer » Mon Sep 22, 2014 6:30 am

I think often newbies want to be doing carves and airs without spending the time surfing that is required. Enthusiasm is great but unrealistic expectations aren't so great. It's not like you get a new board and suddenly you will be a good surfer. It will take time riding waves to get the skills to do the various maneuvers. The right board will help but how much help it is depends on how much hours you spend surfing and how much you stay positive through it all. What board is right for you is another question. I never realized that so many people had trouble learning to surf on a shortboard till I came to this forum. I learned on a shortboard and it wasn't too difficult to me and lots of guys I knew learned on a shortboard but we all put in hours and hours of surfing. Now in my old age I am not capable of putting in the hours I did before so my re-learning is slower. Expect to have a slower learning rate if you can't surf frequently. Make the most of the time you have surfing. Don't worry if you can't do carves and stuff it will all come with time spent catching waves.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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