Catching waves too early???

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Catching waves too early???

Postby STEVENSURF12 » Mon Aug 25, 2014 3:47 pm

Ok so you guys helped me to stop conserving by telling me to pop up earlier and it worked. But now I face another problem. I feel as if I am catching the waves too early. I mean I successfully catch and popup, but I don't drop down the face for like 3 seconds. And as I am dropping down I don't have time to turn as it already crashing. Is it possible I am catching it too early?
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Re: Catching waves too early???

Postby STEVENSURF12 » Mon Aug 25, 2014 3:50 pm

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=44PURl7CS28 I feel like I did what this kid did at like 43 second.
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Re: Catching waves too early???

Postby oldmansurfer » Mon Aug 25, 2014 5:27 pm

I am not sure what you are saying that kid did. However it sounds like you need to put more pressure on your front foot. If you are at the top of a wave and you want to get down you have to aim your board down. Lean forward and if that doesn't get you down the wave try stepping forward a bit if you are on a long board. One of the things beginners often do is take off leaning back because it's like a natural response to looking over a ledge but you need to overcome that urge and lean forward.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Catching waves too early???

Postby STEVENSURF12 » Mon Aug 25, 2014 6:17 pm

Thank you for the advice. I meant how the kid is popping up at the bottom of the wave
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Re: Catching waves too early???

Postby jaffa1949 » Mon Aug 25, 2014 10:11 pm

That kid is Joel Tudor , he as a child prodigy surfer , that for a wave of that size is a perfectly executed take off .it is so small the but he is still standing at the top!
Practice , practice practice, and lean forward, if you do manage to get a take off while you lean back you will be popped off the board with its sudden acceleration .
PRACTICE you will improve! :lol:
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Re: Catching waves too early???

Postby dtc » Mon Aug 25, 2014 11:44 pm

Sometimes when you pop up early you are in fact 'too early' and then stuck on the top of the wave (which then collapses underneath you) rather than just under the lip (ie just forward of the top of the wave) which is where you want to be. Particularly on small waves, there may not be enough power in the wave to get you down the face (without you doing some speed movements, like pumping).

This is just a timing issue - now that you recognise it and are getting 'the feeling', when you think you want to pop up take another stroke (or two) then pop up. This is the scary part in a way, because by this stage the board is probably already pointing downwards a bit. Look at that video right on 2.02 - here is a screen cap, showing the perfect spot to take off and that the board is sort of heading downwards already (but because of the size of the wave he could take it at an angle which minimises the downward ness)

asdf.png


And lean forward as the others say, try to scream down that face not go down as slow as possible.

I hadnt seen that clip before - should show it to those who claim being on a longboard is holding them back and they need a 5ft8 shortboard ASAP to make any progress.
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Re: Catching waves too early???

Postby dtc » Tue Aug 26, 2014 1:34 am

Here's a better shot of 'board going downwards at time of pop up' - JJF at Tahiti

jjf1.jpg
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Re: Catching waves too early???

Postby jaffa1949 » Tue Aug 26, 2014 6:00 am

If you can master the pop up in this sort of surf ,you need no longer seek advice on this forum :lol:
People will probably pay you to put their logos on your surfboard :lol: :lol:
BTW I'd be terrified just watching from the channel :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Re: Catching waves too early???

Postby oldmansurfer » Tue Aug 26, 2014 6:46 am

Save me a seat Jaffa I'll be right there with you in the channel. Watch what they do it's pretty amazing. The reason for the rail grab drop in really becomes clear. they are using their hands to pull their board to set the rail as soon as possible. When I was younger I would probably want to ride one big wave there and then never ride it again. Now I have people relying on me (in other words I got old and lame) and as much as I would want to surf I would be sitting in the channel watching if I went there on that day. Watch Kelly Slaters gopro footage and you don't get a clue about the steepness of the drop or the massiveness of the wall of water or the thickness of the lip.....but who boy the thrill of riding waves like those....you can see it in all the surfers faces
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Catching waves too early???

Postby jaffa1949 » Tue Aug 26, 2014 9:33 am

I surfed pipeline in 1969 when my gonads were bigger than mine brain I was twenty!!
Chopes is just that much more beyond anything I wish to experience in reality!
I've taken up troll hunting just for fun, instead of a rifle I'll just use a pun! 冲浪爷爷
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Re: Catching waves too early???

Postby dtc » Tue Aug 26, 2014 10:33 am

oldmansurfer wrote:Save me a seat Jaffa I'll be right there with you in the channel.


I'll be on shore with some binoculars...
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Re: Catching waves too early???

Postby STEVENSURF12 » Tue Aug 26, 2014 2:48 pm

Ok I will try all you guys said. I am going to go this weekend. There are 1-2ft waves which are goods for me to practice on.
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