I have a question

[Soflosurfer]

So I just started surfing agian about a month ago and we have this storm approaching florida. I look at the surf report and it confused me, it is saying 10 foot swell with 2 foot wave. What's that mean? Other beaches around are saying 9.5 swell with 8 foot waves.. How can there be a 10 foot swell with a 2 foot wave? I guess I gotta learn these things. Can't anyone help me please?

[jaffa1949]

It's call Bathymetrics, you take the bottom contours at your designated beach , shoaling,reefing, long sand bars, offshore thingies in the way! You the add the specific swell direction , divide by the wind direction.
If you observe your beach you may see a great swell that is not pointed at your beach heading to somewhere else.
Swell + the period or wave length determines power and depending on the bottom contours will create your local wave.
You can have huge swell on the windward side of a headland and next to nothing on the lee side!
Look for books on surf and beach dynamics by Tony Butt or check out the Stormrider guides there is one for North America.

Any surfer gets to know what swells and winds are best for their local spots.

Florida you might have to look at Manmade windbreaks, groynes and other wave creating opportunities.

[sonfollower]

Cleanest surf today was up around the cape and North Cocoa Beach due to the swell direction, This is what it looked like in Satellite Beach at sunrise and they were calling on reports 3-4ft+. You be the judge, really not surfable.

http://youtu.be/bZidv8TXm8A