by oldmansurfer » Wed Aug 13, 2014 9:08 pm
Of course I need to mention John John Florence when I talk about great surfers from Hawaii. He is just incredible and he may end up winning the world title one day (just needs to learn the ins and outs of competition in my opinion). There are lots of unknown guys who are great surfers here too who just aren't into contests. It's due to the favorable climate and surf conditions so if you want to you can surf every day without having to travel off island. Recently with all the hurricanes there were decent swells on all sides of the island.
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.