Understanding Surf

[threefour]

Hey,

I basically know the basics about waves/coast. I feel that I understand it to an extent (rips,swell,chop,tides etc.) but I still don't really get how to read swell maps and find where the surf is best and when.

Any help would be appreciated.

Peace

[oldmansurfer]

I really don't have any use for reading swell maps or predicting surf. I live right next to the ocean and have limited time so I surf whatever is there when I have the time. However I am reading a book that goes over the events that lead up to making waves it's called "Surf Science" http://www.amazon.com/Surf-Science-Tony-Butt/dp/0824828917 . This book along with the data may help you to predict the surf. There is an online service called Surfline that gives you predictions for the surf and has live cams all over at popular breaks. It has free access a bit but for more stuff you have to pay a yearly fee....not too much if I recall I used to subscribe but have no need for surf prediction and with all the WCT surf contests being online I am satisfied with my online surf watching. I just started reading the book but it is interesting and they break it down from the start so you know how waves are generated and how they act over distances.

[jaffa1949]

Good recommendationDr. Tony Butt's book, sadly one of my favourite publications that really encompassed the science and art of surfing without the fashion froth has shut down afert 100 issues.
The Surfers' Path is no more surfing will descend into a brainless morass of mediocrity.
Publications that Ican still recommend
The Surfers Journal US
Slide NZed and US.
White Horses Aussie
The Low Pressure Group Stormrider guides
Indo surf and Lingo Peter Neely

The rest I can take or leave but that is only my opinions and possibly my age speaking

[threefour]

It suck about Surfers Path. Oh well.

[Jimi]

Hey Threefour, the thing about predicting swell is that even the experts get it wrong! If you can read a weather MSLP chart, then you can make a fair guess as to what the waves will be doing generally, but the waves at a specific break are so dependent on local variables that that it just takes a bit of time and experience to know when a spot is likely to be working.

[jaffa1949]

A really good way of linking what the surf forecast say and what actually is happening is to go to a beach on those days and compare fiction to reality.
In the olden days of surf you watched the swell looked at the synoptic charts, sacrifced virgins into the volcano, and threw burning surfboards off cliffs.
The net changed all that which is why 2000 web readers turn up at your local on a forecast.
Think beyond that and you will snatch some good uncrowded surfs against the odd.
Snapper, Kirra, Noosa,Malibu and Bali excepted.