by dtc » Fri Jan 17, 2014 4:28 am
I use much the same techniques as the Old Man, although I found that the '1/2 duck dive' didnt work very well for me, even at 85kg. Instead for waves too big to just go over and too small to require a full turtle roll, I hop off the side of my board, grab the nose with one hand (still to the side of the board), push myself up into the air a little and then sink under the wave with the board. Sort of like a duck dive but I'm not on the board (if that makes sense).
The purists will probably find this an appalling technique and there are some risks, but it works pretty well.
The risks are that its limited by your one hand grip strength, so if the wave is more powerful than you think the board may be ripped out of your hand (esp if you have weak grip); and you could wrench your shoulder if the board bounces around a little bit. On shorter boards your feet sometimes get pushed back by the water and hit the fins, but shouldnt be an issue with a long board. Wax the nose of your board (top and bottom) to assist with holding on. But basically its the same concept as a turtle roll but with an easier body position.
I find the problem with turtle rolls is that I'm too bouyant with a wetsuit and cant get deep enough, so I need to get the timing right - otherwise I float up at the wrong time. In any event, the key to the turtle roll (and my 'technique' above) is to get the nose of the board underwater rather than necessarily the entire board. The white water then pushes down on the board as it passes over the top. The thing not to do is let the white water get under the nose of the board - you will never be able to hold on even with a small wave.
In terms of getting out, beach breaks can be harder than reef or point breaks in finding a spot with lower waves. There is often a channel that can help but sometimes the waves are breaking there as well or perhaps the channel creates a shore dump. Another spot is to the 'end' of the wave (the spot where the surfers finish up) because the wave there is usually breaking close to shore. Stand in the shallows holding your board until there is a lull in the waves then hop on and paddle fast (learn good paddling positioning and technique). You should be able to, if your timing (and luck) is good, get over the unbroken wave (remember its breaking close to shore) and out the back. Then you just paddle out and across to the shoulder.
Sometimes it is almost impossible to get out without being able to duck dive. It will be doable, but it might be exhausting.
Learn techniques to punch through the lip if your timing is a bit off. With a long board you can just paddle fast into the lip, duck your head - perhaps spread your legs in an 'X' pattern (for stability) - and drive the nose of the board through the lip (only the lip, however, not the body of the wave - if you try to go through too much water then you are cactus). The key is to paddle fast and have some momentum when you hit the wave.