Latest Surfs...

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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun Nov 17, 2013 2:50 am

looks nice Jaffa. I haven't surfed in 2 weeks so today I got to go out in 2 to 3 foot slop. Some nice parts to the waves but hard for me to find today. There were some body borders out before me and right after me a SUPer and a bunch of long boarders went out but this shows the crowd that I had to deal with.
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby peazz » Sun Nov 17, 2013 4:46 am

jaffa1949 wrote:All is well in Uncle Jaffaland, so I thought I'd post pictures of the smaller days we have had.
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What a beautiful break! Love your pictures as all ways mate!

@OMS - This reminds me of a typical HK Swell :)
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby petersumpters » Tue Nov 19, 2013 7:49 am

Whoah ! 3 days in a row surfing, Wanna put on through this Ive always surf 2 days at most.

~Pete
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun Dec 01, 2013 6:14 am

stormy surf and strong winds but some fun waves and steep takeoffs and no one out
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby jaffa1949 » Sun Dec 08, 2013 12:14 pm

Last two days have kicked a good swell and the winds have either been genuinely off shore or slightly side shore.
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King Tides and a huge back wash.
Which if you were lucky didn't coincide with your take off
IMG_4359.jpg
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun Dec 22, 2013 4:07 am

Here is the surf from today although this is the reef break and I surfed the sand bar. I am so not the photographer
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun Dec 22, 2013 10:43 pm

I went out to the reef break today because there were only 3 guys out and the waves by the sand bar break were too small. It was nice but I got pounded by the one of the biggest waves when I first paddled out. It broke just out side of me and (10 foot face) pounded me pretty good. I still have water draining out of my sinuses as I type this. I missed maybe the best wave that came to me because I had lost my lineup and wasn't sure where I was and it looked like I was maybe 6 feet over from where I wanted to be so I didn't take off. I would have gotten the best backside since I restarted surfing or taken the worst beating since I restarted surfing so I chickened out . :)
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby peazz » Tue Dec 24, 2013 10:48 am

Nice to know I'm not the only one that has water pissing out my nose after a good spin cycle xD

Seems the more I commit and wipe out the longer is drains for xD
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Tue Dec 24, 2013 6:39 pm

I am still not so sure of my backside skills. I would have gone for that wave if it was frontside but backside scared me, however I seem to be learning how to take steep drops with the quad either way. I just need a few more nice sized waves at that break under my belt. I rarely get water draining from my nose like it was yesterday. It was a fairly violent pounding, I turned turtle so my board took the direct hit but it ripped the board out of my hands and then thrashed me around quite a bit. I was probably under water for 15 seconds, not very long, and I didn't panic so that was good. When I turn turtle I flip over and hold the board over me with my forearms holding the board away from me so that it doesn't smack me in the face. I don't think it works as well with a shorter board.
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby peazz » Wed Dec 25, 2013 12:09 am

All I get to surf is backside, Rarely i get frontside as I'm a goofy xD
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Wed Dec 25, 2013 12:31 am

You would love Horner's . It is a left breaking reef break but not a shallow reef. Can be difficult to takeoff on but you have to know the lineup which isn't too hard because there is a boil right around where you want to take off. For some reason yesterday the other three surfers were lining up inside of the boil, maybe they knew something I didn't but it was ok because that meant I could paddle out past them and catch some waves. One of the guys who was there is one of the better older surfers on the island but he was SUPing and after a while he came out and caught waves by me. He teaches surfing lessons too, has his own surf video called Nihi.
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby peazz » Wed Dec 25, 2013 3:12 am

So finally manged to get some internet without a cap and pull a small edit from my latest surf.

This was taken at northern gold coast, The spit just up the road from sea world...

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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Wed Dec 25, 2013 4:00 am

I went to the sandbar today it was about head high, fun little waves, I was the only one out. I guess the most remarkable thing I did was to take off on a wave that broke underneath me so I had to ride the whitewater down the face. Something about the board I am riding makes that easy to do for some reason. I took off with my board pointing sideways and the wave crumbled beneath me forcing me to ride the whitewater to the bottom. Somehow I pulled it off. I don't think anyone was watching but I amazed myself LOL I was trying to get a tube and managed to put my hand in a tube grab it and pull it up to splash water on my head LOL Oh well at least my hand was in the tube.
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Wed Dec 25, 2013 10:15 pm

Back to the sandbar for my Christmas tradition of surfing every Christmas morning. It was small but I got a couple fun waves and shared the rest with some tourist kids from Canada who were happy to be out of the snow and rain (cold rain). It was cold so I had to put on a wetsuit.....just kidding, no wetsuit needed. Merry Christmas everyone
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun Dec 29, 2013 5:00 am

I went back out to the reef break Horners and it was just as big as he last time. I caught some beautiful steep hollow waves but didn't do anything spectacular. I fell while trying to pop up and got back up and made the steep drop but I was on the wrong part of the board to do anything exciting. On another wave it was a really beautiful perfect wave and I went too high on my lip maneuver and couldn't get back to the face :( but it was fun and so exciting to make steep drops bakcside
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Sun Dec 29, 2013 11:30 pm

Back to Horners again today and ran into a 53 year old Australian surfer from Pennela (spelling?) beach. Not quite as good as yesterday
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby jaffa1949 » Sun Dec 29, 2013 11:53 pm

Fixed. Probably Penola. Maps and main street pictures
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A little drive to the beaches.

Could be Penong further west accessing Cactus barely a one horse town, serious surfers live here
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A seriously good surf zone , great white fatal attacks and nasty locals over disrespect and cameras
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Mon Dec 30, 2013 12:08 am

I don't know but he did comment that the worst crowds we had were nothing compared to where he was. Those Australians can be difficult to understand :) (for an American)
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Mon Dec 30, 2013 7:32 am

When I first paddled out he said something and I absolutely had no idea what he just said. I said "What?" He said something again which I had no idea what he said. I decided to ignore that and go on with the conversation. I then recognized he was from down under and listened closely and for the most part I think I understood what he was saying. He said he had no problems with the locals although he surfed a few breaks where there were a few of them out and some of them highly territorial breaks. I guess if you don't cause problems for anyone they are much less likely to cause problems for you although he said at some breaks people with guns would just pick their waves outside of him forcing him to sit there waveless. I hoped he wasn't talking about me :) I tried to be nice LOL
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Re: Latest Surfs...

Postby oldmansurfer » Wed Jan 01, 2014 2:55 am

Last surf of the year. Knee high waves all by my lonesome self. Peaceful fun. Happy New Year everyone
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