by BigFlorider » Tue Dec 25, 2012 8:32 pm
by jaffa1949 » Tue Dec 25, 2012 11:51 pm
BigFlorider wrote:I am sure this has been asked on the board before...but I just turned 46 and I started to learn to surf. I have been a weight lifter for years and I am big (6'2" 240 pounds ) but I am athletic . I have been surfing each weekend , at least one day a weekend for the last 3 months. I found it very slow going and I can pop up on land, in the water it's a different story. People give me different advice ex. Start in the white water, no paddle out farther, etc.). And now I am wondering if I am too big, too old or should I just be patient?
Looking for validation and some inspiration.
Thanks!ImageUploadedByTapatalk1356467535.579753.jpg
by BigFlorider » Wed Dec 26, 2012 1:22 am
jaffa1949 wrote:BigFlorider wrote:I am sure this has been asked on the board before...but I just turned 46 and I started to learn to surf. I have been a weight lifter for years and I am big (6'2" 240 pounds ) but I am athletic . I have been surfing each weekend , at least one day a weekend for the last 3 months. I found it very slow going and I can pop up on land, in the water it's a different story. People give me different advice ex. Start in the white water, no paddle out farther, etc.). And now I am wondering if I am too big, too old or should I just be patient?
Looking for validation and some inspiration.
Thanks!ImageUploadedByTapatalk1356467535.579753.jpg
Ya not too old and ya not too heavy , you are just ready to start learning , here is a bunch of the older crew on the same board as you!!
viewtopic.php?f=6&t=17676
They will validate and encourage you, .
Be patient junior!!!!!!!!!!! Start in the white water! Have fun realising how everything is more challenging than any other sport you have known.
BTW try a good normal board ASAP after getting off the soft top
by jaffa1949 » Wed Dec 26, 2012 3:31 am
Either / Or something about 9ft + some of the epoxy boards are more durable and able to service a learner's wipeouts but if you take care of your board then an standard PU board will do OK tto.BigFlorider wrote:
What is a normal longboard? A fiberglass or epoxy longboard?
by surf patrol » Mon Jan 07, 2013 10:31 am
by billie_morini » Wed Jan 09, 2013 5:17 am
by Kalymero » Mon Jan 28, 2013 8:52 pm
by surfgoth » Tue Jan 29, 2013 11:57 pm
by IB_Surfer » Thu Jan 31, 2013 3:25 am
by BigFlorider » Sun Feb 10, 2013 10:42 pm
by dtc » Mon Feb 11, 2013 4:17 am
BigFlorider wrote:Well, I am catching waves regularly, but my problem is popping up consistently...I get my front foot forward but my back foot and back foot knee are still on the board!!! I don't seem to stand all the way in the water!!! Frustrating!!! Any exercises or tips to keep me from having my back knee on the board?
by BigFlorider » Mon Feb 11, 2013 2:30 pm
by lorez » Sat Jun 01, 2013 8:35 pm
by still-learning » Mon Jun 03, 2013 9:24 am
by BigFlorider » Mon Jun 03, 2013 8:40 pm
by jaffa1949 » Tue Jun 04, 2013 6:49 am
by billie_morini » Tue Jun 04, 2013 7:52 pm
by dtc » Tue Jun 04, 2013 11:33 pm
BigFlorider wrote: Now, my big challenge in surfing unbroken waves and finding the spot to be for the take off. I still nose dive a lot and miss waves...
by BigFlorider » Wed Jun 05, 2013 1:34 am
billie_morini wrote:BigFlorida surfer,
Hooray for you!
Enjoyed your recent comments and they ring true. You see:
1. Difficulty popping up water IS the most difficult part of surfing. Failure to achieve this is the #1 reason people quite.
2. Your next big challenges of:
a. surfing unbroken waves is the #2 surfing challenge, and
b. finding the spot to be for the take off is the #3 surfing challenge, which without, you can't achieve #2a.
Keep doing it and all three will come together. The overall way to achieve this is to simply have time in the water. You learn things consciously and subconsciously through time in the water. Once experience reaches a certain point, our bodies begin to react instinctively. It is a really cool thing and it's achieved by those that keep the stoke!
I like that bump on the south side of the pier at Cocoa beach. It's often a slow-moving, fat swell. Have you tried to surf that? I bet you can. Boy, and the water is so warm; even in Winter.
billie
by BigFlorider » Wed Jun 05, 2013 1:42 am
dtc wrote:BigFlorider wrote: Now, my big challenge in surfing unbroken waves and finding the spot to be for the take off. I still nose dive a lot and miss waves...
You have probably already realised that nose diving is generally related to not paddling hard enough (ie being fast enough across the water when the wave arrives). Missing waves can also be due to the same factor (although sometimes, esp with 'fatter' waves, they just go straight past...). Anyway, next time you are out put some focus on paddling hard.
Longboards are easier to paddle (than shortboards), but by the time you turn and set yourself up and get the initial momentum, a few seconds will have passed and by then the wave might be on or past you, so you have to anticipate a bit earlier and paddle hard from the start. Drives me crazy seeing the 12 yr old grommets turn and spin and take 2 paddles and set off....but us older/heavier/longer boarded guys need to think ahead a bit more.
1 day ago by Kulharin3 comments
12 days ago by Swimmy Tim5 comments
12 days ago by BaNZ3 comments
18 days ago by BoMan6 comments
21 days ago by hannaconner5 comments
1 month ago by BaNZ4 comments
1 month ago by HaoleKook4 comments
1 month ago by Jimgem2 comments