Stupid surfing fear

[stevenprebble]

Hi guys. Bit of a long one and odd one too! This might be something other people can relate to.

Am 28, fairly fit male who has been in the sea all of my life in some way or another. Been stand up surfing on a shortboard on and off for 10 years but only in the last few years taken it seriously.

I grew up in Cornwall and restricted myself to one beach. Gwithian (if anyone knows it) is a 3 mile stretch of beach with slow beach break waves. Rarely gets over head heigh and the waves are slow and not so powerful. If the waves are a bit too big you just move further down the beach as it tapers off.
Why I rarely surfed other beaches was probably because I felt safe and familiar there. I knew it like the back of my hand. I feel safe there.

I moved a few years back to Wales which is a good 3 hour drive from Cornwall. I still have family in Cornwall so I would go down there a few times a year and continue my surfing but my fitness slowly declined and so had my confidence. My last trip there had dropped me down a peg or two. It was a record big swell day down there and I knew I wasn't able to handle the bigger end of the beach so I headed down to where it was a managable size. Sitting out back I noticed I had drifted really far away from where I first got in and instead of thinking rationally, I was convinced I was drifting out to sea and panic mode set in. I ride a shortboard that isn't really wide or thick enough for my weight anymore so paddling is very tough on it, especially after paddling to get out back. I drifted far over until a female surfer was close by and I asked if we were in a rip. She told me it looks like it but wasn't bothered and continued to sit on her board and wait for a wave. I panicked and caught a wave in.

Looking back I should of sat on my board in a calm manner like her as I realise I wouldn't of drifted far out to sea, just very far down the beach which meant a slightly longer walk back to the car.

I brushed this experience off and decided to take up surfing more locally to me as I love it and can't wait for my infrequent trips back home so I've started surfing in South Wales.

I still however have that fear in the back of my head that if I'm too far out seemingly more so than other surfers that I am going to be drifted out to sea! It's irrational.

Mix this with a sudden fear of 'big waves' and having trouble duck diving passed walls of white water.

Today I had this experience. The waves were faster and dumpier than I was used to so I gave up. I walked up to the side of the waves after getting out and getting dressed to see that I was scared of 2foot waves.

I feel stupid and irrational as I love surfing and hope to travel on a surfing holiday but I need to shake off my fear of big heavy waves. In reality I'm surfing waves that are rarely headheight at most.

Does anyone else get this fear? Why has this suddenly plagued me?

I'm sorry for this long post but I'm just so intrigued to hear if I'm the only one who is scared now I'm out of my comfort zone, the slow small beachbreak of Cornwall.

Steve

[stevenprebble]

I forgot to mention that I don't have trouble duck diving either. I can do it fine. So I don't know why all of a sudden when a big wave comes I just turn and face the beach instead of trying to duck dive.

[billie_morini]

Steve, it simply sounds like you've been out of the water a long time, realize your skills eroded while away, and let your mind run negative. Surfing is like guitar playing and motorcycle racing. You have to do it frequently to maintain the skill. Most of us have gotten a little unnerved at times. Pushing it out of your mind depends on at least two elements: 1) knowing your limits, and 2) not over-exceeding them by too much. Go out again, but take a smaller bite.

[nottyR6]

Yes I agree, I think you just need time in the water to get over the fear. I have a similiar issue if not quite the same, I keep limiting myself to waves I am comfortable with instead of pushing my limits to extend my comfort zone.

[eddyjas]

To get over fear watch surfing videos and know the surfers lifestyle like recent pro surfer Garrett McNamara who conquered 100m wave at deadliest ocean called nazare.

[IB_Surfer]

What size board you using?

[nickyb]

Are you going out on your own? It sounds like you are - why not try and find a buddy to go with? It's easy to let irrational fears creep in if you're sitting on your own in the middle of the ocean. Get someone to go with you - at least till you get a bit more comfortable in the water

[clararaymonds]

Hello Steven
It seems you got a screaming experience with your last surfing......no need to worry it happens to everyone.....may be it is bcoz u get less into water now a days or u have limited your surfing to your native beach.....Surfing is a skill that sharpens day by day as we practice a lot....Its not a matter of fear....just open yourself to other beaches.....continue your surfing without any gap.....m sure you will rock in your next one.....
All the best
Clara

[Albie999]

Hi Steve, whereabouts are you surfing in Wales, I am from newport, and surf in porthcawl, when I have time

I had a similar experience, which added fear. A few months ago, on first surf of the year, all was going well, until I got mashed in a wave (which has happened plenty of times before), however this time, I got hit by my board, and split my eye ..... never been hit before, and was quite a bad cut.

Hadn't managed to get back in (due to time and conditions) for probably 1 1/2 months, and I was so worried of being hit again. The first time I got back in, felt like I was being too cautious and it was affecting my surf, but managed to get out last night, and after catching some nice waves, that fear seems to have subsided a little, not completely, but the confidence was back ... and probably had my best surf so far