Greetings from South Wales - About the board I need

Get advice on the best surfboard for your needs. Tailored advice from knowledgeable surfers and surfboard shapers.

Re: Greetings from South Wales - About the board I need

Postby IB_Surfer » Thu Dec 13, 2012 5:10 am

Stay in the whitewash and get up 5 times out of 20, it will be 5 more rides than before
User avatar
IB_Surfer
Surfing Legend
 
Posts: 3106
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Sun Oct 05, 2008 3:00 am
Location: San Diego, CAlifornia

Re: Greetings from South Wales - About the board I need

Postby esonscar » Fri Dec 14, 2012 2:31 am

Surfing is frustrating . . . especially as a learner / intermediate for the reasons you mention.
To bring you on you need someone watching you and shouting to you to correct anything that is wrong (see . . . I wasn't kidding!).
Hell, how are you to know if your head is too far forward or your rear foot skewiff on the board . . . impossible.
Muscle memory will eventually correct all the errors and then you become a surfer, but until then it will be a pain . . . unless you nail each simple step one at a time.

For example:
Can you sit on your surfboard in surf of whatever size with no hands and not fall off?
Can you stand on your surfboard in flat conditions and then crouch back down and sit on the board again?
Can you go under the water then 'Free Willy' style leap out of the water and instantly land on the surfboard sitting in a stable controlled position, arms crossed ?
Can you shoot a .177 pellet 50yards accurately enough to cut a candle wick in half in outdoor conditions ?

Yup, each of the above is as difficult as the other from new (and yes, before you ask, I am a good shot!).

Though surfing is a pain, it (along with shooting) is the only sport I wish to continue in earnest . . . I lived the surfer life, travelling back and forth from the beach to work . . . having a few beers on the beach, the fires and the food . . . really enjoyed it actually - being mellow but firm is a definite asset in this regard - and I have taught many a friend to catch and ride waves in a very short space of time . . . but there is the thing . . . time and dedication.
If the surf is good go surfing - end of. Just go, go . . . come on lets go !
I used to to work huge hours of overtime in the steel mills of south Wales, so with vast time off in lieu me and my colleagues could (as long as we up to speed in our office work) shoot off at a moment's notice - In fact my going surfing was a condition of my employments in the steel industry!

In essence then, go get the basics sorted first. Catch the wave you choose in the white water ad-nausem, then go for the more difficult (but easier) green faces.
Don't be a hero. Paddle all the way to the shore if you must. Just paddle and keep paddling until the wave takes over. Forget standing until you can catch the clean faces.

Okay, this is long enough ('don't want use up all of Surf Patrol's electrons!)

Patience and dedication are the keys.

Hey, keep posting though, this is a real surfers journey developing!
User avatar
esonscar
SW Pro
 
Posts: 923
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Fri Jul 25, 2008 9:16 am
Location: Swansea, Wales, UK

Re: Greetings from South Wales - About the board I need

Postby Albie999 » Fri Dec 14, 2012 9:31 am

It will definitely be a journey I reckon ... But what a trip I hope it will be :-)

I will have to find someone to start shouting at me, apart from the girlfriend lol. Seems the only times I can get out, is the weekends, and the conditions been poor of late .... Ah well, the spring and lighter nights are not to far away, so surfing after work then I reckon :-)
Albie999
Grom
 
Posts: 21
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Sat Aug 25, 2012 4:21 pm
Location: Newport, Wales

Re: Greetings from South Wales - About the board I need

Postby esonscar » Sat Dec 15, 2012 6:43 am

Cool . . . you should commit to go surf every week, have the gf video you and then upload the footage . . . all errors will be pointed out and your missis can then slap you for each infringement!
Most likely you'r better half will have a go and become a better surfer than you!
[Surfing is actually really rather good for everyone!]
Commit for 12 months . . . just go do it 'just because' beit flat or stormy . . . don't be a pussy yet don't be a hero . . . go and honestly do the best you can each time in the ocean.
If you want instruction . . just ask in this (your) thread :ninja:
User avatar
esonscar
SW Pro
 
Posts: 923
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Fri Jul 25, 2008 9:16 am
Location: Swansea, Wales, UK

Previous

Similar topics

Return to Surfboard Advice