Surf Books

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Surf Books

Postby cornwallsurfer » Fri Oct 19, 2012 3:44 pm

I love to read and I was just wondering if you knew of any good surfing books you'd recommend? I'm not interested in how to surf books, or spot/place guides, but just pure surf journalism.
I have already read the books by Tom Anderson (Grey skies, green waves/Chasing dean/Riding the magic carpet). Thank you :)
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Re: Surf Books

Postby Fay » Fri Oct 19, 2012 4:44 pm

High Surf by Tim Baker is excellent.
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Re: Surf Books

Postby billie_morini » Sat Oct 20, 2012 11:37 pm

A fun read that includes a lot of travel and some dolphin stories, too:

Kook: What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave
by Peter Heller
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Re: Surf Books

Postby billie_morini » Sun Oct 21, 2012 7:20 am

Another one.

A truly madcapped autobiography that tells the personal story behind the visionary designer, mischievous youth, and national icon:

Stoked!
by Bob McTavish

(Many thanks to Jaffa for giving this book to me as a present)
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Re: Surf Books

Postby surf patrol » Mon Oct 22, 2012 8:44 am

I get sent review copies from time to time, Tom Anderson's included. A couple of ones I've liked have been The Lost Coast, a book of surf related short stories (fictional) by Drew Kampion. All For a Few Perfect Waves, Miki Dora's biography. Bustin' Down the Door, Rabbit Bartholomew's Biography.
I've just been sent a new book by Kevin Naughton called Trout Rising. I'll let you know what it's like once I've read it.
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Re: Surf Books

Postby cornwallsurfer » Mon Oct 22, 2012 2:51 pm

Thank you very much! I didn't expect so many replies, it's great :lol:
Does anybody (UK Based) know where I can get hold of these books? My local Waterstones has a relatively small collection of surf books.
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Re: Surf Books

Postby Fay » Mon Oct 22, 2012 5:29 pm

Amazon UK has them.

Funny a Waterstones in Cornwall doesn't stock them (although they'll be able to order them for you); our Waterstones (Isle of Wight) had all those books. We're a surfing area, but not as much as Cornwall is.
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Re: Surf Books

Postby dtc » Tue Oct 23, 2012 6:02 am

What about Book Depository - everyone in Australia uses it, presumably its good for people in the UK as well!
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Re: Surf Books

Postby surf patrol » Tue Oct 23, 2012 8:59 am

dtc wrote:Book Depository

Seconded - http://www.bookdepository.co.uk (free delivery worldwide)
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Re: Surf Books

Postby surf patrol » Wed Oct 31, 2012 3:31 pm

If anyone's interested, you can get a free sneak preview of Trout Rising by Kevin Naughton from Amazon - tomorrow November 1

Amazon US
Amazon UK

only free on 1st November 2012
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Re: Surf Books

Postby shayzzee1 » Tue Sep 03, 2013 12:04 am

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Re: Surf Books

Postby MichaelBradham » Tue Sep 03, 2013 12:26 pm

I traveled around looking to learn the hidden ways of the world. With true surf stories, and descriptions of wellness routines; this book communicates the knowledge I found.
Book now available on amazon: http://amzn.com/B00ESIAGCW
If you read; please consider reviewing on amazon, or liking book page on facebook. Thank you.
My blog: http://llavealhighway.com/
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Re: Surf Books

Postby Steve1066 » Fri Sep 06, 2013 6:36 pm

mike doyle morning glass
greg noll da bull life over edge
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Re: Surf Books

Postby oldmansurfer » Sat Oct 26, 2013 12:36 am

The Wave by Susan Casey (not exactly surfing but interesting to surfers)
Pipe Dreams by Kelly Slater
Eddie Would Go by Stuart Holmes Coleman
Surf is Where You Find It by Gerry Lopez
History of Surfing by Matt Warshaw
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Re: Surf Books

Postby BGriffin » Sat Mar 08, 2014 5:49 pm

Surfing Illustrated: A Visual Guide to Wave Riding by John Robinson

Link to Amazon.com
www.amazon.com/Surfing-Illustrated-Visu ... 007147742X

Very good point reviewer

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Re: Surf Books

Postby oldmansurfer » Tue Oct 14, 2014 2:34 am

Soul Surfer by Bethany Hamilton Story of youg girl surfer who gets attacked by a Shark and loses arm then goes on to compete as a pro surfer

Big Surf Deep Dives in the Islands by Ricky Grigg Memiors of Ricky Grigg big wave surfer scientist oceanographer

Legends of surfing by Duke Boyd a little bit about a lot of surfers

Surf Science by Tony Butt all about waves
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Surf Books

Postby oldmansurfer » Tue Jan 19, 2016 6:34 am

I am reading Waterman: The life and Times of Duke Kahanamoku. It's pretty interesting. While Duke was certainly an exceptional human being it's difficult to extract the myth from reality...on the other hand that's just as well I guess. Other books I have read recently include Raising a Soul Surfer by Bethany Hamiltons mom, One Upon Abundance by Fred Van Dyke, Turning point II by Rusty Miller of interest to me because it has a bit about Kauai John Severson's Surf which is about John and has great photos, Stories of Rell Sunn: Queen of Maklaha, Da Bull Life Over the Edge by Greg Noll, Bunker Sprekles Surfing's Divine Prince of Decadence which is interesting to me because he was a surfer who spent a large amount of time on Kauai and I recall alll these stories about him...they are all true I guess...
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Surf Books

Postby 312T4 » Fri Jan 22, 2016 3:09 am

Hi,
I've read 60% of the books mentioned.

Some are good, some not so much. What makes a good read is the storytelling skill. Take Shackleton's story: his own account is a pain to read. But if you pick up 'Endurance: Shackleton incredible voyage' by Alfred Lansing is one of the most amazing books you will ever read in your life!

So going back to the surfing topic, surprisingly nodoby has mentioned two titles definitely worth a read:

Stealing the wave - by Andy Martin
and
Man in a grey suit - by Glenn Orgias

The first is pure surfing, the second is very touching. IMO they sit a step or two above all those boring biographies...
Cheers
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Re: Surf Books

Postby oldmansurfer » Mon Feb 15, 2016 5:49 pm

I am reading "Kook: What Surfing taught me about love life and catching the perfect wave" by Peter Heller. It is so clear to me now that I was never a Kook
So what is worse.... dying or regretting it for the rest of my life? Obviously I chose not regretting it.
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Re: Surf Books

Postby CharlieG98 » Tue Feb 23, 2016 12:31 pm

Just finished this. Very funny.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Board-David-C-F ... 905916930/

Now reading this and enjoying it a lot..

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Barbarian-Days- ... 1472151399

All the Tom Anderson books are excellent too, as is Kook.
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