how do I get to the lineup no matter what?

[pmcaero]

The past two Sundays the waves have been relentless, hardly any break. Yesterday I just could not get past the breaking point. Every time it looked like flat water, as I furiously paddled , a wave would form seemingly out of nowhere and break in front of me. I have a funboard, I usually turtle roll but yesterday any progress I made was quickly erased.
Is there a way to basically beat this energy coming at you and move forward regardless?

[jay32]

Pick a day when theres more break..

[tony g]

A short board is much easier to get through the waves with, because you can duck dive and get under the waves a lot easier. If a short board is not an option for you, then look for a channel or a lull and try to be determined. Also look and see where the other surfers are paddling out and having success.

[Rickyroughneck]

With great difficulty. If you find a secret that lets you take a minimal or longer through a pounding beachbreak then tell me


Assuming you have a long beachbreak with no channel, there are a few tactics:

Wait for a few minutes at the waters edge (maybe combine that time with a few stretches if it is a cold day). Watch the waves and see where they break to, there are peaks and troughs. A peak is where the wave begins breaking, trough is where it finishes breaking. You want to paddle out in the troughs. Also look at where the other surfers paddle out.

When you paddle out at the trough, get to chest high and wait for a set of larger waves to come. After the set has finished you want to jump on your board and paddle hard to get out before the next set comes. One plus of a minmal is the phenomenal paddle speed, try to paddle around waves to avoid the breaking sections.

If you are unlucky enough to get caught in a set, jump off your board and push it through the waves. Your body will act like an anchor to stop you getting pushed back. If there is no one close to you, and a giant wave is going to break on you, as a last resort consider bailing your board and pencil diving (deep breath, push up off your board and dive vertically, feet first), you might want to hold your nose with one hand and leash with the other. This is usually avoids a tougher beating.

[Newbloke]

It takes a combination of waiting for a lull and furious paddling regardless of what is coming at you. A rip also helps to get you out faster. Once out the back just paddle parallel to the beach and to the take off point.