I'd thought I'd add to this with a little self review and photos and I know my own surfing and I'm just an average surfer
Once you are at the green wave stage the game is essentially different.
White water you let the wave catch you you basically paddle to match the white water speed so you don't get an uncontrollable jolt from behind and you have a little stability from speed. In white water the water is moving towards the beach,
The faster a board is moving the more stable a platform it becomes!
Green waves move faster but the water is moving upwards the energy is moving both towards the beach and lifting the water upwards, only when the wave breaks does water begin moving shorewards.
Big difference.
So lying on your sweet spot, which for green is a little further forward than white. You paddle hard straight or at a slight angle to the beach ( depending on the steepness of the wave), You have to match and exceed the speed (say it one hundred times
exceed the speed) this should put you in a position where your nose is point downhill ( down the wave) two more powerful strokes should get it if you
keep your nose low and pointing downhill, ( gravity is your friend here).
You should really be able to feel the draw of the board drive downwards.
NOW IS THE TIME TO POP UP push down with your hands Gains extra downward momentum as you have traded paddle speed for gravitational suck arch you back and pull yourself into your pop up stance, into a crouch maybe, and lean towards the direction you wish to go along the wave,
stay standing in a forward position not stepping back and run with the wave.
Now the pictures saves me writing a thousand words.
I'm just about to pop up you'll notice the nose is a little higher than I've suggested but the wave is quite powerful, if I was further back I would lifted up and probably lip launched onto the coral reef below so exceed the speed is needed.
If I was riding a shorter board the nose rocker would allow me to take a steeper and a more powerful route to my first turn but this is a long board line I'm taking.
Notice I've pushed downwards on my hands for my pop up, in reality my hands are a little too far forward for a beginners pop up but I've used that to gain a little more downwards momentum.
In the next picture the wave is still growing upwards and I am still quite high in the wave and being lifted but my pop up is complete and I have my eyes on where I want to be in the wave progression I'm also ready to utilise the downslope to pick up any extra speed I need.
The slowest spot on any wave is the spot at the bottom of the peak, if you linger there you will be slow and the roof will always be about to fall on your head.
There are about 6 shots in this sequence but these two give you the beginnings.
The difference between a pro / really good surfer and the average joe is that they have the fitness and ability to exceed the speed in paddling and positioning and can go from one manoeuvre to another in high speed transition.
I've taken up troll hunting just for fun, instead of a rifle I'll just use a pun! 冲浪爷爷