Riding Waves Larger than 4 feet w/o perling?

[SoCalSurfing]

New member here and a noob learning how to surf!

I have a 9ft board I take out and I can get up and surf on white wash and very small 2-3 foot waves with a face. However, as small as a 4 foot wave looks from shore, I wipe out riding them. With the power behind them I usually perl, I even feel it's going to happen as I'm paddling.

What can I do to get up and ride that thing? Paddle faster,.... stay out in front of it....get up faster? Also, if I do get up and the lip is breaking on my board, what do I do?

Also, I was looking at used short boards in the store, they felt so much lighter and easier to handle than my big old long board, I almost though I could ride it easier...but probably not a good idea yet?

Any advice is helpful! Thanks!

[jaffa1949]

Have a look around the site there is lots of information in regard to what you are asking, and be patient with yourself it takes time to lern and get all the bits of surfing together. IMO stay on the long board it's easier to paddle and get your riding in the white water going really well first, find a beach where you can get out and have a paddle at an unbroken wave , if you are pearling in the white water you are too far forward the adjustments are very fine not huge go for paddles when there are no wave learn the glide spot for your board.

There is quite an article and some conversation about wave heights to on the forum, have a look around

[billie_morini]

SoCal,
from my own 9-foot longboard experience:
1) you may be taking off too late (this will cause pearling on larger green waves), or
2) some waves form too quickly to ride (see if other surfers are catching them or not; this type simply steepen to maximum height very quickly [instantly])
3) it is possible to surf 7 to 12 foot waves with 9-foot longboard (many surfers do), so you have some more practicing ahead of you
billie

[SoCalSurfing]

Ok, thanks for the advice guys...

[surf doc]

It may help to experiment with some more angling of the board. If you are going right, cheat a bit and point the board to the right more than you normally would and see if that helps you get up and going down the line faster. Like Billi said try to take off sooner or catch it further on the shoulder with a longer board, that will make the take off angle less critical. Also, remember to look down the line as you are taking off rather than down the wave or at your feet. This serves two functions: first you will generally go in the direction you look. Second it slows things down, it's similar to looking further down the road while driving rather than looking directly in front of the hood.

[SoCalSurfing]

Thanks Surf Doc, I will give that a try for sure. Looking out will be hard, I do look down a lot but that is probably why I feel like the small waves are so powerful. It's been raining here so I try to stay out of the polluted run-off water but hopefully this weekend it should be clean. Will let you know how it goes!

[surf doc]

Thanks Surf Doc, I will give that a try for sure. Looking out will be hard, I do look down a lot but that is probably why I feel like the small waves are so powerful. It's been raining here so I try to stay out of the polluted run-off water but hopefully this weekend it should be clean. Will let you know how it goes!

yup I'm in socal too, I hear you on the weather. Although I can't say that it keeps me away from surfing, but it's been stormy.

[IB_Surfer]

I would re-post in the longboard forum

[SoCalSurfing]

Went out yesterday, 2-4 ft waves. On the larger waves I did not pearl at all this time, however, I did fall off backwards and to the side many times. I actually did not get up on any of the bigger ones. My legs weren't feeling as strong as usual, so I think it effected my balance. Will do more lower body at the gym tonight. Kept reminding myself to stop looking down. Even though I didn't do as well as I hoped, it still felt better and more natural than usual, so I'll keep at it. Thanks for the tips, I can't wait to go back out again!

[surfwill38]

Sounds like you've made some improvement bro. Congrats! As far as falling off backwards or to the side. Try wide'n your stance a little keep your knees bent.hope that helps

[RonG]

On the larger waves I did not pearl at all this time, however, I did fall off backwards and to the side many times.

I've done my share of that, particularly falling off the back. Mostly it was a question of catching the wave, seeing a (relatively) steep drop, and instinctively leaning back away from it. I think it's mainly a psychological thing. I've improved a bit by committing hard to my paddling, really getting the board moving down the slope prior to popping up, and believing I'm going to make the drop and committing to it. Even when I occasionally misjudge things and end up digging in at the bottom, the outcome is usually no worse than falling off the back at the top.

[SoCalSurfing]

Thanks guys...

[SoCalSurfing]

Went out again yesterday, it was awesome. I was able to catch a few waves slightly larger and pop-up smoothly. This time I looked forward to the land every time and it really helped. Also remembered to bend my knees and stay low, that really helped too!