My surfing journey

[jwardmagic]

Just to let you all know, because of lack of money, the next time I will be able to go surf will be the 8th Oct (3 weeks) . Managed to get two sessions in this month though so its not all bad. See you then!

[surf patrol]

Make sure you keep the workouts up so you don't loose any of that surf fitness out of the water.

[jwardmagic]

I should post that I won't be able to get to the beach until the 8th of October now (just over two weeks) because of money issues and study. I am seriously missing it though and I am getting anxious, I don't want to lose any of what I've gained! I guess its lik riding a bike though, you don't forget. I just wish I could go this weekend . If a miracle happens and I can I'll update as soon as Im back.

[jwardmagic]

Make sure you keep the workouts up so you don't loose any of that surf fitness out of the water.

I'm keeping up with the workouts yes. However, Im finding the yoga 10x more beneficial than going to the gym.

[jwardmagic]

Day #9 (8th October)

I've been extremely busy so haven't had the time to write this one up until now.
But I have really noticed the difference in my surfing if I take a week off. I'm sure it is just my body becoming a bit unflexible due to lack of time in the water but, it took about 5 tries just to stand up and ride a wave this time which felt quite gutting for me!

I can't completely blame myself though as the waves weren't perfect, but after my initial 5 wave warm up, I seemed to be back in the swing and continued to catch my ten waves. Unfortunately the weather was quite awful and very cold so I didn't stay out longer than my ten waves.

At one point as I was swimming out past the waves, a big wave containing a very big fish crashed on my head which was an experience I didn't think I'd ever come into when surfing. It must have been a mackerel but the impact was quite a shock, almost like getting hit in the head by another surfboard.

I am a bit gutted that I won't be able to make another surf session until December :'(. There are a lot of financial restraints that have come up for me and to be honest, surfing seems like a bit of an addiction so I'm not sure how I'll cope wondering if I'll be as good when I get back to it and pondering over how much progress I could have made if money wasn't such an issue for me! But once again, I can see that in two ways. If I choose I can let it be like the dozens of waves trying to push me back to shore as I duck dive past them until I catch that wave again.

So December it is!

[RickKane]

Hi,
I am inspired by your story I just started surfing at 38.I face similar challenges and I wanted to share. I live 90 minutes to 4 hours from surf depending on the season.
Conditions here are touchy with tide movement, wind and swell all having to line up to even get a rideable wave. Rocky breaks, cold water..not really beginner friendly. I have several injuries, that keep me from bending my back when paddling, and bending my wrists. I also, have some heavy calcification around my left hip from a 12 foot fall on concrete. Basically I have a history of skateboarding and car accidents(none of which were my fault btw).Anyways, it hurts for me to paddle, but all the pain goes away once I'm up riding and smiling. And I always feel better about my day after a surf. No matter the wave quality.
Once I tried surfing, I became a full on addict. Actually I had people tell me I would have issues, but I can pop up faster than they can now. I have my own methods.
So to make my pop up less painful I cheat and use my knuckles, this gives me an inch or more extra clearance than lying my hands flat. This might make it easier for you, to swing your legs and hips through your arms, if you move to shorter boards. I have long inflexible legs and I'm a big guy at 6'2 200 pounds so this helps me get popped up very fast. it does not affect balance contrary to what you might think.

Since I get to my feet faster (no dragging feet) I'm planting my feet on the sweet spot and dropping in instantly,

anyways, stoked on your progress. keep it up! I'm going to surf a terrible break - 3 foot close out usually, tomorrow.


Cheers!

[jaffa1949]

Welcome Rick Kane, any method that gets yor pop up working is the right one. Nobody is going to criticise a 6'2" 200lber that gets up.
You are a guy that is working out how to work his body great!
Keep the stoke the other sort of knuckle draggers do not have the stoke and lack fun in their surfing.

[oldmansurfer]

Yeah Welcome Rick. I am 6'2" 200 pounds also and I have problems with my left hip and knee and my right shoulder and lower back. I have a few years on you (I'm 60). I am glad you can find a way to surf. Whatever works, don't worry about how you are supposed to do it. I really don't know what I do when I pop up most of the time since I am not paying attention to it usually but one thing I noticed is that it is easier to pop up when I am taking a steep drop. The steeper the easier. I guess it is because the board falls away from me and gives me more room to move to move my aging body. Anyway Rick keep the stoke going.

I am sorry to see that jwardmagic hasn't posted in almost 3 years. That was an interesting journal. I hope that is because he is too busy surfing