lol, and here I was googling movies with that name haha
We had our lesson on a different beach today. Very different character, much sharper drop-off, and a reef break that we had all to ourselves for a little while. We had @4 foot breaks coming in and I think we learned a lot- the least of which, to just have some confidence in ourselves whether there are other people around or not. There were a few real, solid rides and more than a few train wrecks... the wipe outs were a lot more violent at this spot with much underwater cartwheeling!
Things I learned today: A consistent break is great
Paddle out just inside of where the biggest of the set begin to break
On a reef, line yourself up with the centre of where the waves break so you can head either left or right
Be patient. Let the little ones and even the iffy ones go by
If it steepens too fast and starts to break over you, push back to the tail of the board to stop purling, then slide forward for the pop-up
Angling the board on a steep wave helps prevent purling
Look, and point with your leading hand where you want to go
Bigger waves and deeper water mean a lot more paddling and more violent wipe-outs that can hold you under longer
When up on your board, a beach with a sharp drop off will have you on the rocks and sand before you know it! (probably a high tide issue)
Heavy fog+ rolling swells can make you seasick!
Groups of rowdy blowhards are hard to ignore, but hold your spot
If I remember more I'll add it later

(BTW, we did tip)