The start of my surfing journey

[jwardmagic]

I am new to surfing.
I am 22 years old, and for the last 10 years have suffered from ankylosing spondylitis to a severe degree, ulcerative colitis and recently 'enteropathic spondyloarthropathy' which basicaly is a spondylitis related pain...(extremely painful). All of these things severely limit my hi and back flexibility and when flexing, bending etc I often feel extreme pain.
I have started yoga and meditating which both seem to help with the flexibility and relaxation (I also suffered depression and anxiety) and in the process came across surfing and fell in love with it!
I'm not sure if there are any deeper/spiritual kind of surfers here, but the feeling of peace and just, pure aliveness I feel when surfing/attempting to surf is just incredible.

I was recently in contact with a surfing instructor. She told me she started surfing when she was 23 years old. Within two years (surfing everyday) she came first in a county competition, and then fifth in her country. I have a past with skateboarding which I was quite good at and I realised that I really can achieve something great if I have the #1- Discipline, #2 - passion and #3 persistance.

I have decided to make it one of my goals to become as good at surfing as I can be to prove to myself that I can overcome my limitations with spondylitis, to heal myself, to prove to myself that I can achieve anything and to become an inspiration for all those that may be in a similar situation to me.

I want people to look at what I achieved with the limitations I have in the future, and use it to push their own lives forward. To face their own problems and build a better life and world for themselves.

I am not exactly in a wheel chair, but I do find it increasingly difficult and painful just to move. But I am determined not to let this get in the way of my hopes, dreams, aspirations and confidence!

I live 50 miles away from the nearest beach, however, I am lucky enough to live near some of the best surfing beaches in the world (cornwall and north devon) for consistant waves. I would have to call myself a 'weekend warrior' but I plan to go at least once a week, and during the week crosstrain with yoga, weight training and whatever other activity may crop up. I am thinking further along the lines a carveboard, balance board (although my balance skills are already very good from skateboarding in my past).

One quote that has remained with me for a long time is that of Bill Hicks. "Life is a constant choice between fear or love". I have made the choice of love and I know that if I stick with it, do not compare myself to others...but when I do realise that it will pass...things will turn out better than I can or even should bother imagining, and most likely a lot different. I see life as like the waves in an ocean. You slowly learn to ride the waves. You will fall. But you HAVE to fall in order to learn to do it better.

I will post a blog each week of my progress, what I found hard or easy etc of each surf session. Hopefully in years to come others can look back and feel inspired by this, and go out there and not let anything get in the way between themselves and their own dreams.

[jaffa1949]

jwardmagic, every now and again Uncle Jaffa gets sat on his arse, this is clearly one time in regard to a post I made earlier.
It's easy to lose track of the fact that behind any question, there may be a real and strong reason for what seems daft, and of course the unaware wade in and dump on it. So apologies, As a retired Chiropractor I understand what your diagnosis means and it certainly explains all the trouble in popping up etc.
I applaud you for getting on with the journey and any advice I can offer please ask, ankylosing spondylitis can its associated issues can go into remission and the progression can stop for a while, ( nobody knows why).
Your choice in yoga and meditation will certainly help the problems and your attitudes around them also your goals in showing the world your progress in overcoming this humble a formerly smart mouthed Jaffa (consider that one of your first results).
Let's hear the blogs

[jwardmagic]

Thankyou Jaffa. I've found that eating according to the idea that it is based on leaky gut has helped my symptoms and therefore I plan to go down this route with my diet and supplements (as Im also studying nutrition). If it goes into remission for me, it will be one of the nicest things that has happened to me for years! I'll keep my fingers crossed and in the mean time keep slowly improving my flexibility and working on my surfing etc.
I've actualy surfed 3x before I decided to make this blog and will post a blog about that soon, what I found difficult, what I feel I improved on etc.
Thankyou for the positive comment.

[Liquid Peace]

All the best. You certainly have picked some great activities; weight training, yoga and, of course, the greatest sport & recreation of all: surfing.

[nflsurfing1]

Look forward to reading your blog!

[jwardmagic]

My blog is on this link:

viewtopic.php?f=6&t=17524