I'm a n00b surfer, just a few questions

[bobbarker]

My buddy donated an 8'0 foamboard to me, I've been surfing a few times and I have some questions...

First, I keep getting hammered by waves. The waves on average are 2-4 feet in my area, I realize that's not that big, but I have a hard time not getting smashed. In another thread someone mentioned turtle rolling, but that doesn't exactly work with a foamboard because it's so buoyant. I can go over small waves just fine, but should I bale completely if it's just too big?

Next, I'm scared to catch big waves sometimes if I can't fide an easy corner to ride. Usually I'll nosedive pretty fast, I thought moving my feet forward would help, but it really doesn't work for me. Plus I noticed most peoples feet are generally a lot farther back when riding than mine. What's the deal?

Finally, I've seen people "pump" their board to get speed. How do I do this? Oh yeah, turning is kinda hard with a foamboard.

Thanks in advance, I think I'm learning fast, and surfing is fun so far.

[saffasurfer7]

With regards to the nosediving, that'll either be because you're too far forward on the board, you need to be further back and also popping up too late doesn't help either. Not a longboarder so have to leave the rest of the answers to someone else.

Although, I find for getting under waves, sometimes bailing but keeping a hold of the nose of your board helps to get under a wave. Just tuck the nose kind of under your arm and dip it under the wave with you.

[drowningbitbybit]

You're on the most bouyant thing in the ocean, so you can forget about duckdiving, and even a turtle roll will be near impossible on an 8ft foamie. Best thing is to find a more mellow break, or only go out when you're confident you wont get mashed.

As for the nose-diving... get to the back of the board! A foamie will catch almost any wave you paddle for - you dont need to be at the front of the board, which is what makes the nose dig in. Start at the back of the board, and work forwards, and only go as far forward as you need to to catch waves.
And pop up as soon as the board is on the move - its all a lot easier once you're up and moving to not get mashed.

As for pumping the board - you can try, but Im not sure it'll have much effect on a foamie (correct me if Im wrong anyone!). To pump the board and build speed, you put all your weight on the front foot so that the board moves down the face, but it wont take that for long (the nose will sink and under you go) so then you correct that by putting the weight on the back foot. The weight stays on the back foot for a little while if you want to carry on down the wave, or for a longer time if you want to move back up the face or go for a turn or whatever.

As for turning them, yeah, they're a complete bugger to turn! But it can be done - Ive seen one 360'd before (But that was a surf school instructor!)

So keep at it - and start saving for a 'real' board!