Staying high on the wave?

[surf doc]

Hey guys,

I've been surfing for a little over a year, I'd classify myself as an advanced beginner. I've made the transition to shortboard and I am paddling well, popping up quickly and consistently catching waves and riding across the face. I am still, however, consistently missing sections, losing speed and getting caught in the white water sooner than I'd like.

Today a thought occurred to me, maybe I'm running out too far down the wave instead of staying higher up on the face. I gave it a shot and yes, I felt that I had a bit more speed and was able to lengthen my ride.

I was wondering if anyone else had this same experience when you were at my stage, and if this indeed seems to be a common pitfall of beginning surfers. It's probably wave and break dependent, but I think the principle is sound. Someone once told me that you always think that you're higher up on the face than you actually are, and most people realize this when they see video of themselves.

[jaffa1949]

I think you answered your question well with your observation in paragraph 2. You change something it worked repeat the experience.
Watch a lot of video of Terry Fitzgerald and Gerry Lopez specialist high line runners.
Initial good bottom turn to placement on the wall, really good surfers can generate the speed as a base for everything they do.
Average and below surfers IMO lack the ability to find the speed consistently.

[JDawg]

Yeah, very common for beginners! You spend so much time trying to learn how to go down the line and beat the white wash in the beginning, that its all you focus on. "Gotta get down the line...Gotta beat the section..." Then, one day, you realize that you've gotten too fast, and you're outrunning the wave. Time to start hitting the more critical part of the wave now and slowing yourself up a little bit! Now's where it gets REAL fun!

[jaffa1949]

Yeah, very common for beginners! You spend so much time trying to learn how to go down the line and beat the white wash in the beginning, that its all you focus on. "Gotta get down the line...Gotta beat the section..." Then, one day, you realize that you've gotten too fast, and you're outrunning the wave. Time to start hitting the more critical part of the wave now and slowing yourself up a little bit! Now's where it gets REAL fun!

Quick, invent the cutback!

[jaffa1949]

I have treated Desperate Housewives a pair of Regular half-eaten bull testicles the best so far

Hi merrytess I edited your post to give it some connective meaning on this site. sigh meritless

[drowningbitbybit]

Meritless is no more.....