You might be a kook if...

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Re: You might be a kook if...

Postby jaffa1949 » Wed May 04, 2011 11:49 am

Delightfully amazing. I was sent a book called "Kook" written by Peter Heller by a fellow member of this forum.
To him a great thank you.
Unlooked for spontaneous generosity, something we could all do a little more often.

The book is about an older beginner going from Kook to capable surfer in California and Baja California.
I'm not going to say more and give the story away but is a worthwhile read for any beginner or capable surfer, it looks at what we all go through in our journey to surf.
Recommended. :D
I've taken up troll hunting just for fun, instead of a rifle I'll just use a pun! 冲浪爷爷
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Re: You might be a kook if...

Postby behindThePeak » Wed May 04, 2011 5:15 pm

jaffa1949 wrote:Delightfully amazing. I was sent a book called "Kook" written by Peter Heller by a fellow member of this forum.
To him a great thank you.
Unlooked for spontaneous generosity, something we could all do a little more often.

The book is about an older beginner going from Kook to capable surfer in California and Baja California.
I'm not going to say more and give the story away but is a worthwhile read for any beginner or capable surfer, it looks at what we all go through in our journey to surf.
Recommended. :D



i picked it up a while back. really enjoyed it. well done Peter. Still surfing?
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Re: You might be a kook if...

Postby JoshAggars » Sat May 14, 2011 2:43 pm

bothered putting together the following picture of what's been said to date
http://www.flipflopscity.com/blog/you-might-be-a-kook-if-you/

Seriously need a beer.
Surf writer for Flip Flops City Surf Blog and owner of the largest collection of flip flops in the western hemisphere.
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Re: You might be a kook if...

Postby needawave » Sat May 14, 2011 7:35 pm

I know most of this is in jest but I want to point out a couple things. I can totally relate to having a break wired, sitting lined up and a snake paddling over. I also relate to looking like a kook and getting dropped in on. (I would rather not get dropped in at all, but I do get a certain pleasure from the look on the person's face when they realize they are shoulder hopping the old guy in the tube.) You see, I am 53 years old, have been surfing since 1967, ride a long board, and have become one of those old guys out there. I have to wear a hat because I now must do everything I can to prevent the reappearance of skin cancer, including on top of my bald head. I also must wear ear plugs now because my ears are 90% closed. It is not a loss of hearing that is the problem. It is that my ears do not drain properly and get infected very easily. And when they do, the canal swells shut (it doesn't take much) and I am deaf for at least a month because ear drops can't get in. My point is, A kook is a guy out there with the wrong attitude. It has nothing to do with his appearance or skill level.
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Re: You might be a kook if...

Postby jaffa1949 » Mon May 16, 2011 1:02 pm

needawave wrote:I know most of this is in jest but I want to point out a couple things. I can totally relate to having a break wired, sitting lined up and a snake paddling over. I also relate to looking like a kook and getting dropped in on. (I would rather not get dropped in at all, but I do get a certain pleasure from the look on the person's face when they realize they are shoulder hopping the old guy in the tube.) You see, I am 53 years old, have been surfing since 1967, ride a long board, and have become one of those old guys out there. I have to wear a hat because I now must do everything I can to prevent the reappearance of skin cancer, including on top of my bald head. I also must wear ear plugs now because my ears are 90% closed. It is not a loss of hearing that is the problem. It is that my ears do not drain properly and get infected very easily. And when they do, the canal swells shut (it doesn't take much) and I am deaf for at least a month because ear drops can't get in. My point is, A kook is a guy out there with the wrong attitude. It has nothing to do with his appearance or skill level.


Hi ya Needa, have you had your ear checked for boney exostosis of the ears coming particularly from surfing in cold water. This may enable you to have surgery to allow you to have a wider ear canal if it is the problem. This of course is something that needs to discussed with a doctor. It is also something that will recur over time.
Like you, I wear ear plugs hat and as an extra gloves ( I've seen too many farmers in Australia have skin cancers cut from their hands)
BTW Australia particularly Queensland is the skin cancer capitol of the world and the hole in the ozone layer often extends to Australia.
We have even had young people die here from tanning in sun beds :shock:
Final statement I wonder how many of the young guns now will stay around in my case since 1958 and in your case since 67.
HEY WE GOT OLD DOING THIS, it doesn't entitle us to anything special just those days ( you know the ones ) along the way.

Cheers from Down under
I've taken up troll hunting just for fun, instead of a rifle I'll just use a pun! 冲浪爷爷
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Re: You might be a kook if...

Postby Rickyroughneck » Mon May 16, 2011 11:11 pm

jaffa1949 wrote:Like you, I wear ear plugs hat and as an extra gloves ( I've seen too many farmers in Australia have skin cancers cut from their hands)
BTW Australia particularly Queensland is the skin cancer capitol of the world and the hole in the ozone layer often extends to Australia.
We have even had young people die here from tanning in sun beds :shock:

Nasty! How does one die from tanning? I know flesh blisters if really burnt, but DEATH?!

Is it heat stress (shock) or UV related?
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Re: You might be a kook if...

Postby Aloha » Tue May 17, 2011 4:23 am

Rickyroughneck wrote:
jaffa1949 wrote:Like you, I wear ear plugs hat and as an extra gloves ( I've seen too many farmers in Australia have skin cancers cut from their hands)
BTW Australia particularly Queensland is the skin cancer capitol of the world and the hole in the ozone layer often extends to Australia.
We have even had young people die here from tanning in sun beds :shock:

Nasty! How does one die from tanning? I know flesh blisters if really burnt, but DEATH?!

Is it heat stress (shock) or UV related?



Skin cancer, yep you can get it from a tanning bed too.
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Re: You might be a kook if...

Postby jaffa1949 » Wed May 18, 2011 11:40 am

Rickyroughneck wrote:
jaffa1949 wrote:Like you, I wear ear plugs hat and as an extra gloves ( I've seen too many farmers in Australia have skin cancers cut from their hands)
BTW Australia particularly Queensland is the skin cancer capitol of the world and the hole in the ozone layer often extends to Australia.
We have even had young people die here from tanning in sun beds :shock:

Nasty! How does one die from tanning? I know flesh blisters if really burnt, but DEATH?!

Is it heat stress (shock) or UV related?


Hey Ricky here is your answer, it's UV rays you can get sunburn at either the north or south pole or at extreme altitude, It has nothing to do with heat and with that a higher risk of skin cancer. In tropical areas getting hot quickly may cause you to come in out of the sun.
About 10 minutes of sunlight per day is very necessary, as the skin produces vitamin D necessary in developing healthy bones, without vitamin D you can develop a disease called Rickets.
Over exposure to the sun or sun bed and the UV rays there allows cellular damage which can be the underlying cause of changes that can become various types of skin cancer. Basal Cell Carcinoma, Squamous Cell Carcinoma and worst of all Melanoma.

A tan for Caucasian skin especially northern European versions is the first defense against deeper skin damage burning is skin damage no matter how you put it, some people burn and go on without problems others do it over and over and it becomes an issue later in life.
It is not uncommon in Australia to see farmers and older surfers with skin grafts and missing ears and rebuilt noses.
There are some issues with sunscreens as there are claims out there that some of the screening agent and Nanoparticles are themselves cancer causing agents :shock:
There has been and increase in rickets in America, England and Australia as people have gone to extremes in covering up.
WTF do you do?
Me I choose early morning or late afternoon to bare my skin, if I surf at any other time rash vest, zinc, gloves and hat and non greay sunblock liquid zinc on my legs.

One mate of mine had a serious Melanoma cut from the instep sole of his foot, major foot reconstruction after.
BTW the skin presentation of a melanoma can be just a small black spot, cutting it out is like removing an iceberg , if a Melanoma has gone beyond the skin, it is life threatening.
So prevention is best, a poor but vital second is early recognition and treatment. :idea:
What to look for new moles or skin lumps color changes on the lumps change of shape size or colouring, increasing in rubbing or bleeding of surface.
A good rule for all skin exposed surfers is to have a skin audit. :idea:
Go to your doctor or skin specialist get them to look you over and map your spots. Go again next year they if they are good will note and act on any changes. They also have access to instruments and tests to confirm the problem or set your mind at ease.
One other way if doctors are not your option.You and your partner do a review of each others skin, note the details and if you are in the least suspicious go to the doctor :idea:

Another aside on this, Australian women, who tan often, end up looking about ten years older than their untanned European counterparts :P

Long answer but the issue is important. Read up
I've taken up troll hunting just for fun, instead of a rifle I'll just use a pun! 冲浪爷爷
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Re: You might be a kook if...

Postby Rickyroughneck » Thu May 19, 2011 12:57 am

jaffa1949 wrote:
Rickyroughneck wrote:
jaffa1949 wrote:Like you, I wear ear plugs hat and as an extra gloves ( I've seen too many farmers in Australia have skin cancers cut from their hands)
BTW Australia particularly Queensland is the skin cancer capitol of the world and the hole in the ozone layer often extends to Australia.
We have even had young people die here from tanning in sun beds :shock:

Nasty! How does one die from tanning? I know flesh blisters if really burnt, but DEATH?!

Is it heat stress (shock) or UV related?


Hey Ricky here is your answer, it's UV rays you can get sunburn at either the north or south pole or at extreme altitude, It has nothing to do with heat and with that a higher risk of skin cancer. In tropical areas getting hot quickly may cause you to come in out of the sun.
About 10 minutes of sunlight per day is very necessary, as the skin produces vitamin D necessary in developing healthy bones, without vitamin D you can develop a disease called Rickets.
Over exposure to the sun or sun bed and the UV rays there allows cellular damage which can be the underlying cause of changes that can become various types of skin cancer. Basal Cell Carcinoma, Squamous Cell Carcinoma and worst of all Melanoma.

A tan for Caucasian skin especially northern European versions is the first defense against deeper skin damage burning is skin damage no matter how you put it, some people burn and go on without problems others do it over and over and it becomes an issue later in life.
It is not uncommon in Australia to see farmers and older surfers with skin grafts and missing ears and rebuilt noses.
There are some issues with sunscreens as there are claims out there that some of the screening agent and Nanoparticles are themselves cancer causing agents :shock:
There has been and increase in rickets in America, England and Australia as people have gone to extremes in covering up.
WTF do you do?
Me I choose early morning or late afternoon to bare my skin, if I surf at any other time rash vest, zinc, gloves and hat and non greay sunblock liquid zinc on my legs.

One mate of mine had a serious Melanoma cut from the instep sole of his foot, major foot reconstruction after.
BTW the skin presentation of a melanoma can be just a small black spot, cutting it out is like removing an iceberg , if a Melanoma has gone beyond the skin, it is life threatening.
So prevention is best, a poor but vital second is early recognition and treatment. :idea:
What to look for new moles or skin lumps color changes on the lumps change of shape size or colouring, increasing in rubbing or bleeding of surface.
A good rule for all skin exposed surfers is to have a skin audit. :idea:
Go to your doctor or skin specialist get them to look you over and map your spots. Go again next year they if they are good will note and act on any changes. They also have access to instruments and tests to confirm the problem or set your mind at ease.
One other way if doctors are not your option.You and your partner do a review of each others skin, note the details and if you are in the least suspicious go to the doctor :idea:

Another aside on this, Australian women, who tan often, end up looking about ten years older than their untanned European counterparts :P

Long answer but the issue is important. Read up


Mmm very interesting. I study biology at university so know the basics of cancer formation, nasty stuff! Interestingly all the melanin (dark pigment) in skin cells congregates around the nucleus to shield it. Melanin is also extremely toxic, and is used as a chemical defence in insects against bacteria and other invaders!

I always find it amusing when I see a few older folks at the swimming pool etc with really tanned and wrinkly forearms/ face yet a pristine white belly. Just goes to show really!

There should really be more advertising of the risks of excessive UV exposure I think (at least in the UK).
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Re: You might be a kook if...

Postby drowningbitbybit » Thu May 19, 2011 2:53 am

jaffa1949 wrote:There are some issues with sunscreens as there are claims out there that some of the screening agent and Nanoparticles are themselves cancer causing agents :shock:


Have you been listening to that crazy Stewart again? :bang: :wink:
Yes, there is a theoretical - and possibly even real - risk of particles increasing your odds of getting skin cancer, however UV will cause skin cancer.
You're still roughly a billion trillion squillion times safer in the sun with sunscreen than without it because you're worried about the allegedly carcinogenic effects of skin cancer.

And incidentally - another sign of a kook: sunburn :lol: 8)
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Re: You might be a kook if...

Postby jaffa1949 » Thu May 19, 2011 3:44 am

drowningbitbybit wrote:
jaffa1949 wrote:There are some issues with sunscreens as there are claims out there that some of the screening agent and Nanoparticles are themselves cancer causing agents :shock:


Have you been listening to that crazy Stewart again? :bang: :wink:
Yes, there is a theoretical - and possibly even real - risk of particles increasing your odds of getting skin cancer, however UV will cause skin cancer.
You're still roughly a billion trillion squillion times safer in the sun with sunscreen than without it because you're worried about the allegedly carcinogenic effects of skin cancer.

And incidentally - another sign of a kook: sunburn :lol: 8)


I agree with you completely, sunscreen definitely, I mention because some of the science papers that crossed my desk when I was in practice were exploring the beginnings of concern.

As for Roy I take his opinions as just that, his opinions.
My sunscreen is liquid zinc, and zinc cream zinc especially over 30+ and sun avoidance. I have had BCCs removed I'm a Ranga and got burnt many times in my youth. slip slop slap.
For all non Australians slip on a shirt ,slop on some sunscreen slap on a hat.
I've taken up troll hunting just for fun, instead of a rifle I'll just use a pun! 冲浪爷爷
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Re: You might be a kook if...

Postby needawave » Thu May 26, 2011 6:52 pm

Yep. You nailed it on the ear diagnosis. Gotta get it drilled or chiseled out one of these days. (Ive been saying that for years). By the way, if you ever need an end to a flat spell, just schedule me an appointment. Works every time... I appreciate the seriousness of the skin cancer awareness. And, yep, those days.....nobody out......Now I have to travel to get that.
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