Hey guys,
I'm outta San Fransisco, and i live on the beach in San Diego now. The waves here are mostly all beach-brakes, much different than what I'm used to in Santa Cruz or SF, and they are very top to bottom, meaning late drop-ins, steep faces and a curl that is almost impossible to outrun or not have it close in on you. But on a good day i find very tall, weak and slow lefts and rights. Im riding my "old reliable" which is a 6'7' more than usual volume, specially on the front foot. Im 6'3 180 and ride pretty heavy on my front foot. The front rocker is pretty steep which is nice for san diego. I will be surfing mostly in SD for the next couple years, and when im home ill be surfing SC. SD=weaker quicker beach brakes with shorter rides. SC= Super big, not steep, slow and powerul, wayyy better surf. Anyways i just need to add another board to my quiver, i had a board break the week i moved down here to SD (goddamn jetty). I was looking at al merricks because i have the money for anything but carbon fiber. I want a fast, hard turning machine, probrably with a flat rocker (since my board now is pretty steep. Any ideas, the M4 and MBM+ are nice so are the Flyer's. I want a shorter board with good float.
Im gonna check out the shops here, but it would be super chill if i got some advice onine too! HAhaha
SHREEDDDD