so im learning to surf. i have a months time left and have reached a point where i can roughly catch waves...but with all the other dudes here it is an excercise in patience.
there are three breaks i can surf here. a left, right, and small beach break. The locals told me that the small beach break is where they learned to surf, so i went there and it is my favourite. the catch is that it only cranks when the tides right, and the ride is about 2 secs...but you get a xxxxx load of (small) waves that teach you how read a beach break, and takeoff in the direction right of the start.
Th right break is hit and miss.Its either big or non existant. Sucks cause im regular foot but i dont really care.Its sweet cause the locals all warn the kooks to stay away cause of the rocks....but i realized that i could surf it...went there and caught the sweetest waves to date.
The left is always packed, but always has waves.But now that i can grab waves with some consistency i can begin to practise turning and all that jazz...but at the same time how to battle it out in a crowd.
What should my priority be? I need to maximize my time!haha
Thanks for any tip,hints, advice.
good luck in the waves and taker ez
jay