Wave size and board size

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Wave size and board size

Postby MIP » Sun Jul 18, 2010 5:14 am

People talk about boards being good in 'small waves' or boards being good in 'large waves'. I would think that the idea of what constitutes a small or large wave is subject to the persons opinion. But how the board performs in those waves or how it is designed is not wholly subject to opinion.

What constitutes small waves, and therefore what boards are for these waves.
What constitutes medium or big waves, and therefore what boards are for these waves.
I guess most importantly is - where does the overlap lie in terms of board and wave size?
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Re: Wave size and board size

Postby Forage » Mon Jul 19, 2010 3:10 am

It's pretty subjective. Where I live "small" is under chest high, and "big" is head-and-a-half plus. If I went somewhere else and called a head-and-a-half wave "big" I'd probably get laughed at. If in doubt, ask. Most websites for major board builders will say "big" and "small" but they'll also give a bit of an actual measurement, as in "knee to head high".
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Re: Wave size and board size

Postby MIP » Sat Jul 24, 2010 8:01 am

I guess I was trying to get peoples experiences on what shapes/sizes/types/makes of boards have done well for them in specific conditions. Theres so much hype by websites/sellers that sifting to what is actually applicable isn't clear cut. Especially given that everyone has their own style, surfer shape/size and types of waves they like.
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Re: Wave size and board size

Postby billie_morini » Sun Jul 25, 2010 2:29 am

MIP,
here are my experiences on what shapes/sizes/types/makes of boards have done well for them in specific conditions --

Learned to surf on 9ft longboard. Rarely use anything else. Sometimes will pull out 7.5ft hybrid when there is a lot of energy (push) in the waves. My longboard is regularly used in surf from 2ft to 7ft. It was shaped by Don Mel of Santa Cruz and bears his Freeline brand. The board's other dimensions are 2 3/4 inches thick and 29 1/2 inches wide.
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Re: Wave size and board size

Postby isaluteyou » Tue Jul 27, 2010 1:34 am

This is what i use

ultra small surf (1ft) - i use a home built tank fish (twin fin). I can nose ride the thing to give you an idea how floaty it is :lol: surfs like carp in anything else.

small mushy surf (2-3ft) - i use my 5'10 X 20 X 2 3/8 hybrid short moon tail. It is wider throughout and has a fatter nose but the rails still come pretty sharp for decent turns.

small clean surf (2-3ft) - i use my bat tail quad 6'0 X 19 X 2 1/4 epoxy. It is a very light board and pretty much geared up for performance in small clean surf. The quad fins let me generate a touch more speed in not very powerful waves. This is a mega fun board.

For steep windswell anything up to 5ft i stick with the quad.
for sloping/soft waves up to 5ft i will stick with moon tail - the extra float helps me paddle into very slow waves. - i change to the quad in slow waves at 6ft+

for clean surf 5ft + i use my 6'2 X 18 1/4 X 2 1/4 standard shortboard. if the waves are bigger but softer say 10-12ft i usually stick with the same board.

For big steep waves 10ft+ i use my 6'4 shortboard. Its not 100% geared for larger waves but works. if the surf gets even bigger say 15ft+ i dont actually have a suitable board so i just use the 6'4 for now. But am planning on getting a 6'8 mini gun.

Mostly i just look at the conditions and make a call on what to take 8) all my boards are custom made by Sauritch Surfboards. other than the tank fish which was only built by me for one purpose small crappy surf that is questionable weather its worth going out :lol:
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