Going Long To Short

[RobG814]

Hey guys, ive learned a ton from this site that really helped me get started surfing so thanks for all the great info! ive been surfing consistently for about a week now (i tried a few times spread out within the past few years) but now ive been going everyday and im hooked. i tried starting on a 6' swallowtail i got for cheap and definitely struggled so i saved up some money and bought a nice used 9' longboard. first time out on that thing was a blast and i caught just about every wave i went for and rode nice and clean down the line.

for the past week ive been going out consistently and can turn a little and get some nose time and am having a blast. ive tried going out twice the past couple days on the shortboard and have yet to catch any waves but am getting much closer. something i found that really helped me was instead of paddling crazy fast for a wave and just splashing around, i did what i do on the longboard and paddled nice and smooth with stronger strokes and kept my feet together behind me and kicked a little. i am definitely getting close to catching some waves on it now but i either seem to be in too deep and pearl or else just miss the wave, but i know i just need to keep working on it and ill get it. i did catch one but only managed to get my back leg to my knee and ride it out but im getting there.

anyway, any info you guys could give me to help out would be greatly appreciated. i have fun out on the longboard but really want to get into shortboarding too. i know going from 9' to 6' is a huge drop so ive been looking for a bigger shortboard to help make the transition a little easier but have yet to find one in my price range. i did find a 6' retro fish that is significantly wider and thicker than mine for cheap, would that be better than the shortboard i have now or not really make a noticeable difference?

thanks in advance!

Rob

[surfnoob]

I just moved down from a 7' 6" minimal to a 6' 8" shortboard. I've taken it out 3 times - first 2 sessions i struggled to the point i got out and swapped boards, but then struggled on the minimal, so put it down to the conditions.

Next session i took out the minimal and surfed like a dream - best session ever - weird!

Then i took my shortboard out on the weekend and got my first stand up ride on it - a nice turn out of the drop before the wave shut down.

I can remember seeing a gob-smacked newbie floundering in the whitewash looking in awe and it made me chuckle, cos it was 18 months ago that i looked in awe at other surfers on their shortboards Made me think of all those hours I have put in and the stoke gets stronger with each session!

I do paddle harder with the shortboard, but one thing that made a big difference for me was after watching the power paddle chapter on the 110% Surf Techniques Volume II and i caught so many waves on my minimal after that.

Also i find the timing is more crucial on the shortboard but that could be more me getting used to it - the drop seems a lot steeper - but i'm sure this will get easier with practice.

[RobG814]

just got back from a dawn patrol session this morning on the shortboard and i couldnt be more stoked, i caught 5 waves! i was out there for about an hour and a half and was struggling like normal until after about an hour then it started to click and i was getting closer and closer until i finally got one. i couldnt believe how fast the drop is on the shortboard compared to the longboard, i felt like i was flying.

youre definitely right about the timing being more crucial since the wave is so much steeper but once i got a feel for that i was getting way closer. something that really helped me was continuing to paddle a few more hard strong strokes once the wave has you just to get that extra push into it, that seemed to make a huge difference. then after that it was all down to getting a good pop up and keeping balanced down the drop, but man what an awesome feeling once you get it.

i was thinking about going out and trying to find a cheap longer shortboard somewhere between 6'6" and 7' to help make the transition into shortboarding easier, but i think now that i might just stick with my 6' since i seem to be making progress on it. what do you guys think, should i just stick with what i have and keep working at it since i seem to be improving or would it be worthwhile to try and get my hands on a longer shortboard? thanks guys!

[surfnoob]

What's your weight, height, etc? I'm 6ft 2" and about 12st 6lbs and won't really consider a shorter board now until I am comfortable with my 6' 8".

Great to hear to you got the waves, and such dedication with a dawn patrol!

Will keep on with mine. I seem to take both boards with me - not sure what it would be like using the shortboard in smaller waves - generally ride the shortboard 3ft+ otherwise i use the minimal.

[RobG814]

im 5'8" tall and weigh 140lbs which is about 10 stone i think. ive been doing the same, taking the longboard out when the waves are no good and when they are bigger i try the shortboard. i would love to find a shortboard with some more volume that could catch those small powerless waves like my longboard but still have some maneuverability so i can work on turning and more shortboard skills even when the waves suck. i think i will look around for something like that so i dont always have to ride my longboard when the waves are no good maybe a retro fish or something like that i dunno.

ive decided to go out at dawn the past few days because the waves have been really good and there are a lot less people in the water to worry about. its so nice being able to go for every wave that comes through without people swimming, bodyboarding or a ton of other surfers in the way. plus then there arent a ton of people watching me get my ass kicked haha

if i were you i would try something that i did, next time you go to the beach and you know the waves are good dont even bring your minimal. there were a few times where i wouldve gone and switched boards cause i was sucking on my shortboard but didnt bother because i didnt have my other board with me. this will just force you to stick it out on the shortboard and not go for what is naturally easier you know? keep me updated on your progress dude!

[surfnoob]

Hehe, came across this post again when searching for more help! So you guessed it - still struggling on the timing and angled takeoffs. I have been pretty good and have been leaving the mal behind and using the shortboard.

However, wave count is still grim - depressingly so. Was out there on the weekend and there was one lad out there who was on everything - he'd ride in on one wave slashing cutbacks all the way and paddle back past me and then there'd be a wave coming and he'd just turn around and be on it everytime. He was superb - I noticed him doing this over a number of sessions and his angled takeoffs are perfect - his timing is A1. He's on waves that look as though they have wipe out written all over them - real fast jacked up waves.

Anyway, doesn't help me much. In fact makes ya feel even more frustrated. I'm lucky to score 1 or 2 waves in 2 hours and that lad must have 20 at least.

So Rob - how u getting on? Making much progress? Give me some inspiration!