problems with my 7'4'' mininal

[lorcar]

Hi guys, first post, dont know if this is the right forum.
I started learning to surf many years ago, and havent been surfing for years though. In the last months I had the chance to go surfing more often.
I had a couple of surf camps on Canary Islands, with 7'10'' NSP and a BIC longboard (this was back in 2005). Then, after a long gap, I started again in Brazil with shortboards (6'8'', 6'4'') and then on my own I spent 10 days longboarding in an easy spot (Praia da Pipa, near Natal in Brazil), and really enjoyed it, as I was able to stay on wave's face til the end and til my legs burned (this was 2009).
I would define myself a post-beginner, but now, using my 7'4'' minimal results are very bad.
I surfed with it during the last months and results were miserable while all the others were having greatest fun with their shortboards. Then I heard something I had thought but didn't want to admit: the minimal isn't a long nor a shortboard, it doesnt glide and start like a long because you have to paddle like crazy to move it, you cant duck dive and have to struggle like mad to get to lineup. My main problem at the beginning has been that I couldn't catch waves, as it seems I didnt paddle enough or earlier enough. I found it very very slow to start. So heavy. It seemed the minimal didnt move much or was very heavy and slow. Dimensions are 7'4'' x 20 1/4 x 2 1/2, three fins.
Now I can catch waves more easily, but cant stay high on the wave. It seems I am unable to steer away from the "shore direction" and get across wave's face. While I paddle catching the wave I try to angle my board as much as I can: if the shore is at 12oclock, then my nose is at 2 or something like that (usually right waves here). The problem I am facing is that once I pop up and I turn (right) my torso and push with heel (I am a goofy, on a right wave) in order to get up on wave's face, the board simply continues to go towards the shore, or it really slows down. IT's like I cant dig the rail. The other day I dropped a friend on a shortboards, and I saw him going superfast behind me on top of the wave, while I was sadly going -not straight, but at an angle- towards the shore.
I also remember that when I was at Lanzarote (with longboard) in order to stay on the wave without losing it (as it happens now) I used to grab my external rail with my hands, making somehow easier for my internal rail to dig into the wave and goes on the face. Should I try to do this as well?
thanks in advance!

[isaluteyou]

what brand minimal? if its a popout some of them tend to be a bit sluggish anyway. But even still you should not have to paddle like a demon to catch a wave. Might be your paddling technique or positioning in the line-up

as for turning the board well if it is a popout you are riding many of them are not exactly maneuverable but the trick is to stand further on the back of your board to make a turn not too far back otherwise you could stall. Positioning and weight distribution are key here.

so heres what i think you should look at doing

1 - pay attention to where in the line-up you are attempting to catch waves. Look at others and try to mimic where they are taking off from

2 - work on your paddle technique

3 - work on your positioning on the board

4 - timing - not only popping up/paddling/catching waves but also making turns at the right time. If you try to turn with no speed you wont do much.

Im sure others on here will give better advice as anything over 7ft is like a tank to me so im probably not the best one to hand out advice in regards to surfing a mal or anything bigger

[lorcar]

thanks a lot
Brand: i bought it second hand some years ago, it was originally shaped in Spain
I think you got it right, I should try to have my rear foot more on the fin, more than just trying to dig the internal rail.
For your points:
1- all the others here have shortboards, so I guess I could catch waves a little more on the outside.
2- i think it's not that bad in terms of technique, but I admit I can get tired on the final rush
3- i worked on that, and so I avoid pearling and also avoid "nose in the air"
4- this is important for me. Waves here are not super fast. I am still trying to understand if my starting angle is correct or not. If I pop up at that angle, as I wrote the board goes towards the shore, while watching the others it seems they turn the board IMMEDIATELY after popping up, or even during the pop-up. Their board goes horizontally on wave's face, so they do not do a first bottom turn to gain speed. My board on the contrary goes diagonally towards the shore. I am thinking I should catch the external rail to keep the board high, or I should press and rotate the board with my back foot when I pop-up.

[isaluteyou]

4- this is important for me. Waves here are not super fast. I am still trying to understand if my starting angle is correct or not. If I pop up at that angle, as I wrote the board goes towards the shore, while watching the others it seems they turn the board IMMEDIATELY after popping up, or even during the pop-up. Their board goes horizontally on wave's face, so they do not do a first bottom turn to gain speed. My board on the contrary goes diagonally towards the shore. I am thinking I should catch the external rail to keep the board high, or I should press and rotate the board with my back foot when I pop-up.

You will find the sooner you make a bottom turn and set up your trim line the less momentum you will lose. Basically as soon as you make your bottom turn aim for the top of the wave and then bring it back down its like ~ effect in a continuous motion that way you maintain momentum. Regardless the object is to keep with the most powerfull part of the wave without having the wave close on you. If you find youself heading towards shore it means.

1 - you took off to late so there is no where to go but towards the beach
2 - you are not leaning into your turns meaning you are not gonna set your line.

as for stalling - its a matter of over extending your turns i.e lagging. or straying too far from the most powerfull part of the wave that way the only time you will stall if you intentionally do it by putting all your weight on the tail and not doing anything with it

Hope it helps - oh and sounds like you are doing just fine everything comes with experience. Just surf more and it will work itself out generally

This should also prove useful https://surfing-waves.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=15459