Fin Placements on a 7'2" Flying Carpet

[aarondkeogh]

Hi everyone, my names Aaron, I like surfing and also cuppa tea every 30 minutes.

I brought a 7'2" magic carpet pre-shaped blank from homeblown and I'm expecting it tomorrow, 22/September/2009. It's the first time I've shaped a board before but I'm pretty good at the arts and crafts. I'm a little clued up on putting the fins on (Brought a 10"5 fin box from seabase, came today).

Can anyone give me some good dimensions for the placement of the fins? I was only going to go for a single fin set up, but then the 1-2 thruster set up would give me more freedom to choose what sort of set up I want on different occasions. Where about's should I put the thruster fins regarding distance from the rail? Also where should the centre fin go regarding distance from the bottom of the board?

Also what sort of fin box would you suggest for the thrusters? FCS / Future / LOKBOX?

Here's a picture of the "finished product". It's going to look like one of them organic mint humbugy types that Mr Willy wonkers making these days.

Adiós Amigos

[kitesurfer]

Keep it as a single fin, magic carpets don't need the option of a thruster set-up IMO.

KS

[aarondkeogh]

Just a little update, I've been shaping the concave's of the board today I put in a single concave in the front, then a double all the way to the back and then a vee in in tail. I'm going to do the rails tomorrow, what type of rails should I put on. I was thinking tucked under 70-30 what do you think?

[kitesurfer]

Just a little update, I've been shaping the concave's of the board today I put in a single concave in the front, then a double all the way to the back and then a vee in in tail. I'm going to do the rails tomorrow, what type of rails should I put on. I was thinking tucked under 70-30 what do you think?

I think having a single to double concave is a mistake. This combination of bottom contour is mainly used on shortboards and helps lots when pumping the board in weaker surf. I can't imagine ever pumping a magic carpet where they are meant to glide across sections smoothly. If its still possible i would lose some thickness in the board and remove the double contour and have it single concave to vee.
As for the rails its depends how loose you want the board to feel. 60-40 for myself.

KS

[aarondkeogh]

Thanks for the reply kitesurfer. Heres a little snipped so far
I've painted it in acrylic deck side. I'm really pleased with it so far.

[kitesurfer]

Hi again.

Another tip for you for your next board. When spraying allways mask off the stringer. The stringer is what provides your board with all its strength and a good bond between resin/fibreglass and stringer will make your boards stronger.
Looking good so far.
Is it just the photo or is the stringer at the nose still square?
KS

[aarondkeogh]

Still square, waiting for a hand planer from a friend to shave it off.

I found painting the straight lines pretty difficult especially on the foam with paint going underneath the tape. I had to re-do it a few times but now their as straight as an arrow. I've seen a lot of boards with some sort of stripes, ether horizontal or vertical. They always seem perfect in the pictures, what method would be best to paint a board. Glass the board then airbrush water based paint onto that then gloss? or maybe it requires some good tape?

Point taken with the stringer will use on next board I make.

Oh yeah, The board is 7'2", 22" wide, 2.9" thick, 18.25" nose, 15" tail. I read your guidance but I brought side bites to go into the construction anyway. How should I install them? I've got a 10.5" centre fin box and some "F3 Systems 3/4" Deep Rail Box" from seabase (they are 6" long, pretty good design also). (Fin cant, toe and distance from the stringer and rail?)

Cheers,
Aaron