by nauc » Thu Jun 04, 2009 5:30 am
by hawaiiSUCKSexceptsurf » Fri Jun 05, 2009 4:59 am
by esonscar » Fri Jun 05, 2009 9:02 pm
nauc wrote:ive always loved trying to surf but i suck but after seeing this pic, i get it. i mean i understand why some people call it a drug. dont know how to explain it, only thing that comes to mind is, beautiful/perfect/godly.. idk
i want to do it. ride the edge, the rush, the thrill... think ive lost my mind and im happy about it
by sinistapenguin » Fri Jun 05, 2009 11:28 pm
by T.I. » Sat Jun 06, 2009 2:53 am
esonscar wrote:
Beautiful - Until you get your face drilled into the sand on an inside barrel!
Perfect – Except for all those mushy blown out crappy days.
Godly - Yup, seen him a few times too during wipe outs !
Ride the edge ? - I call that over the falls !
The thrill and the rush are there though .....
and most importantly .....
the stoke is to be found in any good session - no matter how big the wavesand it is this which departs the need for sanity for the next session, preventing total loss of ones mind to the surf.
by T.I. » Sat Jun 06, 2009 2:55 am
by sinistapenguin » Sat Jun 06, 2009 10:05 am
One person, with enough cajones to risk it all for that one perfect ride.
by esonscar » Sat Jun 06, 2009 10:16 pm
T.I. wrote:esonscar wrote:
and most importantly .....
the stoke is to be found in any good session - no matter how big the wavesand it is this which departs the need for sanity for the next session, preventing total loss of ones mind to the surf.
And the group pessimist shows themselves
by T.I. » Sun Jun 07, 2009 5:43 am
by sinistapenguin » Mon Jun 08, 2009 1:30 pm
by hawaiiSUCKSexceptsurf » Tue Jun 09, 2009 7:52 am
by T.I. » Wed Jun 10, 2009 12:35 am
by hawaiiSUCKSexceptsurf » Wed Jun 10, 2009 11:38 am
by Lomax » Mon Jun 29, 2009 4:47 am
hawaiiSUCKSexceptsurf wrote:i wouldnt say your "stoke" of surfing is better than someone elses "stoke" for knitting
by hawaiiSUCKSexceptsurf » Mon Jun 29, 2009 5:34 am
by esonscar » Thu Jul 02, 2009 8:25 pm
by Jonah_Fro » Fri Jul 03, 2009 10:52 am
hawaiiSUCKSexceptsurf wrote:esonscar is being realistic. surfing isnt perfect. there are plenty of times when i go surfing and end up wishing i just stayed home and played with my dog. and its no more spiritual than any other hobby. i actually feel that surfing and hiking and kayaking or whatever are, but thats because i like nature. some people dont. i cant stand surfers who think theyre better than everyone else, and it is extremely arrogant for someone to think that they are better because they surf, or to think that their hobby of surfing is better than other peoples hobbies, or more soleful or whatever. thats why i hate the term sole surfing. im going to go sole hiking tomorrow. then the next day ill go sole fishing and sole bike riding. shut the f up. I also cant stand bros, but i will use this term to communicate with the bros on here. i dont care what your "stoke" is. i wouldnt say your "stoke" of surfing is better than someone elses "stoke" for knitting or jogging or whatever the hell gets their jollies on so long as its not self destructive or bothering anyone else.. its just different
by Ged » Sun Jul 05, 2009 6:19 pm
by Jonah_Fro » Fri Jul 10, 2009 5:01 pm
by Ged » Sat Jul 11, 2009 6:56 pm
Jonah_Fro wrote:Well, for me it's a feeling of total well being and happiness. Buzzy, happy, full of energy (but probably nackered). All the bad stuff that's going on elsewhere, is in a different sphere of existence.
45 minutes ago by Slindenkohl3 comments
15 hours ago by JamesHsouthaus7 comments
3 days ago by Kulharin3 comments
14 days ago by Swimmy Tim5 comments
14 days ago by BaNZ3 comments
20 days ago by BoMan6 comments
23 days ago by hannaconner5 comments
1 month ago by BaNZ4 comments