, so I decided to translate it to english. It's about that feeling of accomplishment and perfection you get while surfing an incredible wave, and the article generally tells you about one of those magnificent surf days..Intro:
"The beach is bitter in the early hours of dawn. The sand feels cold against your feet, and the surfboard feels a little heavier than usual, in this first hour of awakening. In a desperate attempt to throw some positive light on the situation, the red morning sun shines with all its might, but the warming effect is minimal. This predestined David vs. Goliath battle brings a smile to your face, as you know who will prevail in the end. Your heartbeat increases, reaching nearly tachycardiac conditions as the waves enter your field of vision."
If you want to read the full article its available at:
http://ezinearticles.com/?Surfing---A-P ... id=2350589
Hope you like it, and that it provides you with a couple of flashbacks from some great surf sessions
