by billie_morini » Sun Apr 05, 2009 8:20 pm
anw1290,
thanks for the additional information about yourself and your objective. Here are brief responses to your questions. They are provided by a middle aged professional working in California that has been surfing for 2 to 3 years. Prior to that, his entire life was devoted to motorcycles (road racing, observed trials, touring, and fabrication).
1. What makes someone un-authentic in the surfing community? Are there any tell-tale signs of it? How do you respond to these "posers"? An un-authentic surfer is one that buys, wears, and uses lot of stuff considered surf-related. This is similar to all the corporate people that are weekend Hell's Angels. They buy a Harley and all kinds of leather clothing for themselves and their wives. Instead of riding all the way to the annual Sturgis, South Dakota Rally, they trailer their bikes. Back to topic: You can spot the un-authentic surfers. They have all new equipment and often drive expensive European autos or the classy, late model SUVs. To generalize, they don't spend enough time in the beginner locations before trying to line up for the more advanced breaks. This causes problems in terms of safety and congeniality. They may only surf a few times per year and it takes far more than that to become competent in surfing. Surfing is like playing the guitar. You have to do it often and work at it to become any good. To answer the 3rd question in this set: I ignore them.
2. How do you feel about corporate sponsorship and commercial surf competitions? Does going mainstream or pro make someone a sell-out or are they still respected in the surfing community? How about major surf labels and commodities, like Billabong or Roxy? Guys that have been surfing for decades may tell you that sponsorship and commericalism has been bad for the sport because it has brought more surfers to the breaks. I'm not sure which way to feel about it. It is nice to see that many pro surfers can actually make a living in the sport, whereas, very few in the past actually could. The infusion of money and interest has greatly improved the quality and selection of equipment and useful water apparel. In this regard, it is positive. But, like model rockets and dirt motorcycling, as well as, mountian biking, you end up asking yourself whehter all this advancement is really good or necessary.
3. Finally, how do you feel that the surfing subculture goes against or embraces mainstream values? Is there any particular statement that some are trying to make by being a surfer? In some ways I admire the untamed surfer. The guy that lives only to surf is truly living for life. There isn't much better than being immersed in the sea, its environment, and riding waves. It provides challenges that few people are able to experience. It is not a waste of time by any stretch. As long as a guy manages to live a surfer's life without resorting to illegal activities, I will embrace his decision to surf at the expense of everything else. Certainly, some surfers are trying to make a statement about their values, but much of this notion in the minds of others is Hollywood hype. A completely dedicated surfer does what he does without too much thought.