Getting to the nose or close to it.

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Postby RJD » Wed Jun 04, 2008 3:57 am

Sorry SilverShark78, you seem to think your in the short board section. Aggression & fighting the wave?

Only thing aggressive here is Roys attitude to people who ask how to nose ride, the OP wanted some help yet he got Roys philosophical viewpoint rammed down his throat, which Roy repeatedly does when not called for. Roy seems to be unable to accept people enjoy and want to do things he doesn't. Also doesn't seem like he understands that people can own more than 1 type of surfboard and do more than 1 thing.
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Postby Roy Stewart » Wed Jun 04, 2008 6:45 am

Yes agreed Silvershark , although I should add that harmonising with the wave also leads to more time on deck and less falling off.

Back in the day with big boards and no leashes not falling off was a natural surfing goal and part of being a waterman, and staying on the board is best achieved with a harmonious no frills surfing style, it just works better that way.

As Silvershark said we accept that some people (for whatever reason)prefer to do tricks, spray throwing and flashy aggressive moves, putting the alternative point of view is quite important though as the surf media simply doesn't do it . . . .. it needs to be presented in order to provide some balance, after all the make it easy style is an ancient, pleasurable and functional surfing tradition which deserves to be kept alive.

Unfortunately the apologists for the competition/magazine/media circus styles of surfing often become very upset when the dysfunctional aspects of their activityand boards are discussed, it's to them a form of heresy to question the high priests of commercial surfing.

Paradoxically a harmonious no frill surfing style works very well with competitive and aggressive wave seeking behaviour. . . . it does with me anyway !

.
Last edited by Guest on Wed Jun 04, 2008 6:49 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby Roy Stewart » Wed Jun 04, 2008 6:47 am

SilverShark78 wrote:Look, there is a lot of misunderstanding going on here. First off, in the surfing society there are many different personalities and "motivations". This diverse group of people is what can contribute to the polar views on such things.

Roy and I are not critisizing anybody. We are simply showing our point of view on this lifestyle that we all hold so dear to ourselves. The modern surfing culture has been geared more towards aggression. I REALLY don't think you can debate that. I take this to be objective. The roots of surfing is not aggression; it is the symbiotic relationship between the ocean and the surfer. Instead of fighting the wave, it is more natural to flow with the wave. It just makes more sense. If you, a human being, think that you can fight one of the most powerful and energetic forces of nature then you are not only ignorant, but foolhardy. And I truly don't believe many do think this. But surfers like Roy and me think that our surf style should reflect our relationship with the ocean; and this is a relationship of submission. You can't argue that this amazing and awesome force of nature can give and take life. Therefore, we surf like we feel. Resistance is not natural.

BUT, again. This is simply a point of view. Neither Roy or I look to instill our thoughts, feelings, and lifestyle on anybody. I'm not trying to sound negative, but this sort of thing, either the affirmation of it or not, really is intrinsic. You do what you feel. And this is what we feel. It doesn't affect guys like Roy how you surf. Do what you want. But don't put a spin on it that we're crazy or critical.


What Silvershark said ^^^^^^^ 8)
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Postby matt2000 » Wed Oct 15, 2008 4:54 am

I thought all this started out with Roy making a scientific statement about noseriding as stalling, not accelerating the board. This should be easily verified, and not turned into a religion war. Speed god, vs classic god, etc, etc. Maybe it's best left to your own personal relationship to the ocean, not what the other guy or media tells you what you should feel. Granted, we all start out learning from what is hand fed to us, then discovers things for ourselves. It's part of maturing.
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Postby Pornstar » Sun Nov 02, 2008 4:45 am

Jeez guys.
This is surely the most "conflictive" thread i have read in this forum besides all the "channel islands vs local shaper´s boards".
I feel i am quite in the middle of both positions.
Yet i kinda "feel" more inclined towards Roy´s point of view.
Specially when i look at the local skateboarding kids around town practicing "tricks" on a flat boardwalk. Jumping around flipping and not landing on their boards.
Then as i was browsing some mags at a local store i heard some of them talking about getting skateboarding magazines just for the"How to do tricks" section.
This all translates directly to "Sponge Bobers" (Keep in mind that i used to bodyboard for more than 10 years. Who seem only interested in doing the most 360´s they can in a wave.
I never did one in all of the time i bodyboarded. As i never ever did a wheelie in my motocross bike, except for when i was in the woods and i needed to do it to step over something.
Sometimes when you are new at something you tend to relly on someone elses opinions or advice to take away the fear and uncertainty (sorry for the spelling). Many times the magazine becomes the unpersonal (put the name of the activity here) expert.
I accept that since im new at this surfing thing (not sport) i tend to grasp whatever i can find in mags, forums, conversations with other surfers and on websites. And i am already brainwashed into thinking that for example al merrick has the patent to the best boards ever. Or that the current board that i have is lame (7´0 hibryd).
So Roy as the appasionate surfer it seems he is frankly is disgusted with all of this mumbo jumbo as i was with so other things when i was really pasionate about other activities.

I agree with him. And i also think that i understand his position. Yet i do feel You were pretty rude and pushy at expressing your point of view.
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