Malibu Today (2nd Time)...

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Malibu Today (2nd Time)...

Postby Lomax » Thu Oct 02, 2008 3:55 am

Was firing while most of LA was flat. My 2nd time surfing the 'Bu. The first time I felt pretty noobish, and I was...I had only been surfing for 6 months. A year later after surfing exclusively beach breaks, I hit the 'Bu again, feeling pretty confident...

That feeling evaporated pretty quickly. Wow, did I get schooled! Everybody is sooo much better there. Even the worst guys surf pretty well. And getting in position is a completly different beast. I was paddling too early, paddling too late, catching the wave at the tail end, and turning too slowly.

Has anyone else travelled to a new break and had a similar experience?
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Postby oldgrom » Thu Oct 02, 2008 4:16 am

Yepserini, on a off day I suck everywhere especialy a new break.. HA HA
Where do you live Lomax ????
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Re: Malibu Today (2nd Time)...

Postby pkbum » Thu Oct 02, 2008 4:38 am

Lomax wrote:Was firing while most of LA was flat. My 2nd time surfing the 'Bu. The first time I felt pretty noobish, and I was...I had only been surfing for 6 months. A year later after surfing exclusively beach breaks, I hit the 'Bu again, feeling pretty confident...

That feeling evaporated pretty quickly. Wow, did I get schooled! Everybody is sooo much better there. Even the worst guys surf pretty well. And getting in position is a completly different beast. I was paddling too early, paddling too late, catching the wave at the tail end, and turning too slowly.

Has anyone else travelled to a new break and had a similar experience?


I've been to malibu two or three time, and the crowd factor is just crazy.
I can't rip a section I want to with 2 guys dropping in on me everytime :(.
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Postby Lomax » Thu Oct 02, 2008 4:44 am

oldgrom wrote:Yepserini, on a off day I suck everywhere especialy a new break.. HA HA
Where do you live Lomax ????

Well thanks...now I don't feel so bad. Guess I'll go back to feeling like a ripper at El Porto (that's my home break)

:)
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Re: Malibu Today (2nd Time)...

Postby Lomax » Thu Oct 02, 2008 4:51 am

pkbum wrote:
Lomax wrote:Was firing while most of LA was flat. My 2nd time surfing the 'Bu. The first time I felt pretty noobish, and I was...I had only been surfing for 6 months. A year later after surfing exclusively beach breaks, I hit the 'Bu again, feeling pretty confident...

That feeling evaporated pretty quickly. Wow, did I get schooled! Everybody is sooo much better there. Even the worst guys surf pretty well. And getting in position is a completly different beast. I was paddling too early, paddling too late, catching the wave at the tail end, and turning too slowly.

Has anyone else travelled to a new break and had a similar experience?


I've been to malibu two or three time, and the crowd factor is just crazy.
I can't rip a section I want to with 2 guys dropping in on me everytime :(.


Yeah that's the other thing. I'm used to having waves to myself, but it just doesn't happen at Malibu. Every wave has 4 or 5 guys paddling for it, and they're all rippers...even the little kids!

:shock:
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Postby parrysurf » Fri Oct 03, 2008 3:16 am

Lomax...if you had invested about 10 more minutes and got to northern LA the crowds were much less and the waves were fun.


The bu is a place I go when I need to raise my BP. I do surf it when it looks to epic to pass up like if I am working in the area....but on a normal run to surf, I would have to pass a few really good breaks to drive to bu so I stay to north LA OX and Ventura.
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Re: Malibu Today (2nd Time)...

Postby drowningbitbybit » Fri Oct 03, 2008 3:24 am

Lomax wrote:Has anyone else travelled to a new break and had a similar experience?


I felt exactly that when I first moved to maroubra :shock:

Getting used to it now though, but I still know not to bother going out if its epic - the locals will be just all over it.
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Postby Thibb » Sat Oct 04, 2008 9:42 pm

Same thing at every Sydney City beach. Even Bondi, more famous for its nosediving backpackers than its skilled surfers, becomes a magnet for good surfers as soon as the swell gets impressive. On such days I will pretty much just float about helplessly, waiting for one wave to get by the hordes of surfsharks so that I can feed on their leftovers.

But hey, paying the dues, right? I am slowly getting to the point where I can outmanoeuver and outpaddle other intermediate surfers. So I guess that if I am willing to stick with it, one day I might be a modest shark myself. Until then I will just float about on 'epic' days ... :)
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