A kook's learning progress

Questions and answers for those needing help or advice when learning to surf, improving technique or just comparing notes.

A kook's learning progress

Postby Katsura » Fri Sep 05, 2008 9:56 pm

Hi, inspired by Phill's post of A Newbie's Guide for Newbies, I wanted to record my own learning experience and hopefully getting some feedbacks when I stumble.

I'm Ying, 34yo about 180lbs and 5'10 in height.

I lived in the UK for the most part of my life but I was born in Shanghai. Shanghai being a city by the Pacific had given me my first memories of the sea - and although it's a cold, flat, industry zone of a sea it still made feel kind of attached to the ocean.

Moving to Northwest UK didn't help my surfing experience much - the nearest beach is over an hour away and nearest surfable one probabaly 2, 3 hours driving. On top of that I can't swim - I can 'float' but I will probably sink given any chance.

Despite that I was always facinated by surfing for some reason - can't explain it or remember what inspired me (maybe it's the ultimate expression of freedom coming from a strict asian upbringing?).

So around 2005 I started learning swimming in the Manchester Aquatic Center. It actually took me 2 years to build up my confidence in water. Summer 2007 I booked some days off in Newquay and a couple of surfing lessons.

That was my first experience on a surfboard, it took about 2 years in preparation so you can say I'm bit of a slow starter :). I was able to catch foam and a few unbroken waves and stood up a few times while in Newquay. (came back from the trip I had the worst tennis/golfer's elbow).

After returning to the north, I start to think how I get to a surfable beach. However the travel made it rather difficult, on top of that, gears in UK costs a fortune.

Amazingly, the company I work for offered me a chance to transfer to their San Diego, CA office. Would I ever! This happened pretty late in 2007, with the busy rush of getting visa and work permit sorted out I didn't dip my toe inthe ocean for nearly 8 months.

Finally, in April 2008 I relocated to sunny SoCal - it took me another 3 months before trying out surfing again for the first time.

I have to say living here you can feel the surf culture, and facility/ ease of access / weather and wave conditions are amazing compared to the UK (so more respect to the British surfers).

I surfed with a few folks from work and got given a free 9' mal for my first board. It's got quite a bit rocker and is thin for a long board with 2+1 fins. I actually found it a bit unstable for me (hopeless).

I have since had the chance to acquire a 9'9" single fin glassed nose rider and this thing is much more stable and easy to catch waves on.

Since starting again, I have surfed maybe 1 dozen times, in Tourmarine, La Jolla Shores and Del Mar. now that work is slightly less busy I'm aiming to hit the water 3, 4 times a week if I can.
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Postby Katsura » Fri Sep 05, 2008 10:14 pm

I went out this morning to La Jolla Shores, (Tourmarine was very busy - the swell was pretty good last night and a lot of people stayed to check this morning), it's gotta to be one of the most frustrating sessions for me.

I went in around 8am, the waves were knee high and choppy. After the first attempt I lost one of my contact lens (I'm almost certified blind without correction lol), so that gave me a weird blurry perspective throughout the session.

The next few waves I couldn't catch, and when I finally managed to paddle into one, I pearled and got a mighty bang on the ear by the flipping board.

It was then a repeated pattern of not able to catch a wave and pearling. probably due to I shift my weight onthe board too forward and too back on consecutive trys.

This was the 2nd time I rode my new 9'9", i don't think I'm quite used to it yet, it's 9" longer than the tri fin I had and a lot more stable. But it's also very cumbersome - it took me twice as long to pivot it around for a wave and some times I paddle too late.

P.S> The reason I picked a 9'9" is because I conciously wanted to progress more towards longboarding eventually, and with a large board I should be able to catch smaller waves (in theory - it didn't work out today). I did skateboard/snowboarding for quite a few years so I appreciate the high energy turns and twists of shortboarders but I found the more mellow chillout style of longboarding have a little bit more draw for me - I will still try a shortnerboard later, if to get my turns sussed.

A few times I was close to catch a wave but somehow my body wan't centered on the board properly and I do a sideways pearl - could be something to do with my lost contact lens and offset eyesight.

This wednesday I also rode at LJS and that was a different session, caught quite a few waves and started doing a little bit turning.

When I got out 2 hours later I was quite disappointed in myself. And with a blurry eye + headache from the tuang.

I will head back this weekend.

Hope with more time, I can eventually graduate from the kook school.
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Postby scsurf » Sat Sep 06, 2008 6:07 am

You really should consider making the drive to "Old Mans" San Onofre.
It's very likely to help with the learning process. Plus it's just a cool place.

re: pearling try angling the board some towards the shoulder, unless you're just riding white water.

Bummer about the last sesh. But we all must pay our dues, thats what I tell myself anyway.
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Postby twerked » Sat Sep 06, 2008 7:38 pm

to help with the turning, slide to the back of the board while sitting on it, so you're basically over the tail. less board in the water means less resistance to turning. and also with the pearling, you're gonna need to catch the wave a lot earlier with a board that big. try sitting farther outside and then just paddle hard when a wave comes
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Postby Katsura » Mon Sep 08, 2008 5:16 pm

I went out on sunday and had a 5 hour session, it was knackering! I managed to twist my elbow a little getting tot he outside so will baby sit it for a few days.

Thanks for the tips folks. I found I can turn the board a lot quicker if I sit further back.

It was very choppy + strong on shore wind on Sunday, so most of the time was spent on practicing paddling and turning in water - I also gave turtle roll a try but not much success there yet.

scsurf - I'm going to look up San-O and head up there next weekend.
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Postby scsurf » Mon Sep 08, 2008 5:25 pm

Katsura wrote:I went out on sunday and had a 5 hour session, it was knackering! I managed to twist my elbow a little getting tot he outside so will baby sit it for a few days.

Thanks for the tips folks. I found I can turn the board a lot quicker if I sit further back.

It was very choppy + strong on shore wind on Sunday, so most of the time was spent on practicing paddling and turning in water - I also gave turtle roll a try but not much success there yet.

scsurf - I'm going to look up San-O and head up there next weekend.



I'd like to know how it goes for you. Hope there's some swell then.

One tip when you get there it's actually called "Surf Beach" on the signs. Expect to pay $10.00 being that it's a state beach.
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Postby wesb » Sun Sep 28, 2008 11:58 am

Keep at it Katsura. You are going through the pains of the learning curve but the juice is worth the squeeze.

I was pearling a lot at the beginning of the summer because of two things. One i was too far inside and trying to work the peak with the shortboarders. Move out about 5-10 yards but you have to change how you read the waves and paddle early, and then i found the sweet spot on the board...forehead hairline over the logo. I keep my head down at first and then arch the back as high as you can once the board starts to plane out and you could be in it man. At any rate...keep it up. Practice practice practice...at least this is what worked for me on the 9'6"

Peace
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