Hi guys I am writing from Mazatlan Mexico!
I have been going out 3 to 4 days a week for 2 months now on an epoxy Byrne 6´6 mullet.
LENGTH 6'6" 198.12 cm
NOSE 12.50" 31.75 cm
MID 21.00" 53.34 cm
TAIL 15.50" 39.37 cm
THICK 2.75" 6.99 cm
VOLUME 39 liters
FINS FCS
It has five fin setup to be ridden as a thruster or as a four fin. I am using the thruster setup at the moment.
I went for it because it has plenty of volume and the extra bouyancy of epoxy boards, i tought that it would help me out since im new to the sport and since I am also 30 years old so padlling assitance was welcomed.
I knew this board was intended to gather speed on flat sections of mushy waves but i tought that it would be just fine for me.
BTW i have been a bodyboarder for over 15 years so i kind of know how catching waves work. I still have to learn how to position myself, beacause it is an entirely diferent art catching a wave on a surfboard than on a bodyboard. I am 5´10 (178 cms.) and weigh 165 pounds.
Now that i have been heading out i am having second toughts on my purchase since the main place where i go to is a beach brake where the waves usually range from shoulder to overhead and a half tall. They are fast and steep faced. Not only the board doesnt seem to be intended to be surfed in those kind of breaks but also it is a pain in the ass to duckdive it, the board is easily "sucked" by breaking waves, and it also doesnt get into the water much when you sit on it so it gets "pulled" by swells. So it makes it hard to get outside when you get caught inside and you have to constantly reposition yourself on the line up. It is also very dificult to gain speed when you start paddling it.
At this break I can catch steep breaking waves just fine but i barely make it on the way down.
On breaking shoulders i can ride down the face but struggle to turn or get bowled over when i ride the wave sideways.
Besides all this:
1) It sucks at steep faces beacause of the low rocker and lots of tail volume. It gets hanged up till the last minute so you have to put a lot of weight on the front foot, so this and little nose rocker = lots of pearling
2) It is very dificult to hold on a rail on steep faces specially for a noob whos not heavy enough to dig the oversized extra floaty rail.
3) Turning is quite strange at first it is very hard to turn due to all of its volume and beacause of its flat bottom.
There is another place where the board excells... a powerless point brake wave but this place its usually too crowded so i hardly get any riding time there and you need to zigzag your way through people which is very hard for me to do at this point . At this place i can catch waves just fine i can make it down the face 3 out of 4 times but i cant keep on the wave that much since i dont know how to turn, wait for the wave, etc...
When i bought this board thinlking that i would better be learning on this one rather than on a minimal because it would be able to handle both of this kinds of waves, i also tought that it was a good learning board because of the extra bouyancy and planning speed and i also apreciated it beaing tuflite so that it could handle all the pounding it was going to get from me during my learning.
Would you be so kind as to tell me your opinion on this board for me and the breaks i described. These two are LEARNING breaks since there are other bigger/better point and beach breaks near here, but i dont plan on heading there until i master riding down the face, turning and riding the waves.
Should i be better learning on a fat/wide regular shaped shortboard instead?
Should i stick to it? Is it surfeable at the breaks i described?
I am worried about spending $600 bucks on it trying to have a better learning experience than on the used 6´0- 6´4 potato chips available.
Since i havent had the board for that much time i tought i could still exchange it for another one more suitable for my breaks without having to loose that much ammount of money.
Sorry for the long post but i tried to describe all the issues and the place i surf at the best as possible in order to get better feedbacks.