Turning and dropping in!!! :) advice is appreciated

[garbarrage]

think i know what you mean... kind of a fear of missing the wave. probably mainly down to the conditions again. if there's power in the wave you probably won't have to worry about it so much. there'll be no doubt that the wave has you... failing that you can just accept the fact that you'll miss a few waves and try getting to your feet as soon as you feel it push you.

[smallwavegrovellerchick]

The longer you surf, the quicker your reaction time will be. Getting to your feet on takeoffs and shifting your weight between your rear and front foot will just become second nature with more experience.

Maybe you can hint throw hints about another surfboard for your birthday, Christmas, or getting on the honor roll. I really think you would benefit from a bigger shortboard or funboard since it'll help you take off earlier. Earlier takeoffs give you a little more time when popping up to your feet. I know you probably don't want to longboard, but maybe just for fun you can rent an 8ft+ board just to give you an idea of how much difference more length and volume make in terms of paddling and balance.

I think it's great that you're getting video footage of your surfing. This way you can actually analyze what you're doing. Good luck!

[TReMoR]

oh i tried an 7foot + that my friend had. It was a 70s board or something and it was really thick.. the thing was i couldnt get it past the waves.. the increase volume and size was harder to go above or try to go below the waves.. and his wax was like glue i couldnt realign myself because I was stuck to the position i started in . All in all it wasnt a very good expirience.. and i was scared that i might break it

i think my size is ok.. because its not REALLy a SHORT board... its like a mini and a shorboard cross.. because its not like 6 feet or anything... its 6'7''

[garbarrage]

the pointy nose makes a big difference tho.... more experienced surfers can explain it better exactly why. but i have a 7'2" pointy nose board and it's way less stable than my mal or minimal. only take it out when i really cant find a way through on either of the other boards. getting there slowly on it tho.... but doubt i'd be doing as well if i hadn't spent as much time on the other boards.

[TReMoR]

so i went today (sunday) and there were closeouts everywhere... but i still went in... and tried to catch atleast one wave since i got a new wetsuit. WEll the wetsuit was big for me and water was getting in and leakign out of my wrists, ankles, and there was a big bulge of water around my stomach becasue of the empty space.. apart from that the waves were really messy and it was hard to tell if it was a wave that was coming or just the water acting crazy. BUT i still caught 3 waves.. which i all tumbled off on... and after that i was scared that my board might break so i got out >< is it possible to ride closeouts?

[pkbum]

is it possible to ride closeouts?

Yes with longboard.

Edit

My bad, I thought you meant those 1 ft close out.

[drowningbitbybit]

is it possible to ride closeouts?

Yes, but you need to be able to pop up in an instant and turn immediately. And accept that it'll be a short ride and/or that you may get a good beating.

And I disagree with ^^^^, for riding closeouts, I'd say a shortboard is the way to go and much more fun. It'll be brief, but intense

[isaluteyou]

And I disagree with ^^^^, for riding closeouts, I'd say a shortboard is the way to go and much more fun. It'll be brief, but intense

yep i agree. Close outs can be a lot of fun they really keep you on your toes. Just make sure your on your feet real quick usually a quick popup followed by a very quick bottom turn to the lip and off the back or hold the line and lean into the tube if theres one. By closeouts im not talking about shorebreak best leave that the boogers and experienced surfers

[surferdude_scarborough]

closeouts are pretty good for practicing big bottom turns and hitting the lip etc because you wont waste a good wave if you mess it up and wipe out. but do be prepared to take a few beatings coz if every wave is closing out then getting back out wont be easy on bigger days.

[smallwavegrovellerchick]

Hey that's what my wetsuit does too. That means it's too big? Glad I never have to wear it here at home.

Depends on how fast the close out is. There are some unrideable or not-worth-taking-off-on closeouts. And then there are closeout sections that provide opportunity to hit the lip, floater, launch airs... But I guess that's part of what surfing is about --finding opportunity in the waves that are available.

[garbarrage]

last september was surfin pure close-outs one day and griping a bit about it.... when this young guy paddled out and started doing floaters on them. couldn't believe the speed he was getting.....
can't wait till i'm able to do one.... looks like a rush!!!!

[TReMoR]

I was at the beach yesterday and there was a number of surfers. I couldn't believe how fast they paddled. It was ridiculous compared to the speed at which i paddled I just paddle like I am swimming ,.. is there something wrong wth that?

[isaluteyou]

there is most deffinetly an art to paddling its something you improve the more experienced you get. However dont compare your paddle power to a longboarder as they will always generate more momentum. Always try to get a rythm going making your movements powerfull instead of just splashing the water

[RustyG]

dont worry so much about how other people look paddling, i taught my friend how to surf about a month ago and it took him about 10-15 times out before he sort of stopped looking like he had some sort of disability. just keep at it. and as a word of advice that i heard somewhere else on this board: if you fall, it'll hurt less if you are standing up.

[pkbum]

arch your back when your paddling, this will make you tire faster but you need to train this muscle which isn't from swimming.

[Beachbum]

nice job on standing up. Just keep working on it and crouch with your legs bend as you pop up. Good luck!

[TReMoR]

thanks everyone!

I went to the beach today and I rode a couple of more waves... paddling at an angle doesnt seem to be working for me.. Its getting easier now.. i can catch almost anything I paddle for.

Today I dropped in on a wave. I felt my self rushing down the face, .... the only problem was that my board went vertical straight into the wave and I flew off. I thought my board would break because it was low tide and the water was shallow.. but it didnt ... How do i stop this?

[garbarrage]

arch your back as you paddle and as the wave catches you. pretty straight forward when you start doing it. i think its kind of like fighting the board level..
you could be paddling at too much of an angle also... its really just the suggestion of an angle 10 degrees or so.
if you're dropping in already you are making good progress... keep it up, you're nearly there.

[TReMoR]

so i had a question about duckdiving...

by how i understand it... you paddle and get some speed then push your nose into the water then push your tail into the water with your foot.. and dive onto the board...


is that how it goes? because pushing my board's nose under the surface is one thing but using my foot to push the tail in is really hard and I can never do it on time. any advice?

[drowningbitbybit]

by how i understand it... you paddle and get some speed then push your nose into the water then push your tail into the water with your foot.. and dive onto the board...

Not quite -
Push the nose of the board down and sink the board. Then put your foot (sometimes you can get away with knee) on the tail of the board and try to get as much of you out of the water as you can. The board will sink. Follow it. Then - and this is the critical moment - push the board forward (still with your arms extended) and then kinda pivot it around the foot, so it goes down and then up behind the wave. As it comes up you'll want to bend your arms to get close to the board.

Easy. Or not.