The essence of surfers worldwide

[brummie]

To me I think it was the fact that i managed to stand up on my first wave and my bro-in-law (who was teaching me) was having no luck, kind of like it was meant to be...
I also think that the water has a calming affect, the sound of it and just wathcing the waves hitting the shore.
Also the fact that its not a common sport like footie or rugby but is unique and i like being different.

[Otter]

About twice a year I post this for the newer folks. Hope you enjoy it as much as I do...

Ken Strayhorn Jr. accurately adds:

Your friend you must choose carefully. He will become your brah, and over time will mean more than anyone else on this planet. Besides surfing, you will drink copious amounts of beer, smoke pounds of pot, and chase boxcar loads of women together. You will lend each other money when times are tight. You will never ask each other for gas cash. You will inform him when his ass crack is showing over his pants. If he doesn't like the woman you are seeing you will drop her like a hot rock. Conversely, if your new woman thinks your brah is a jerk, that's a sign that she's a bozo and should be avoided.

Boards and wetsuits will be shared. You will hoot for each other on fine days. You will badmouth anyone who drops in on him. People will come to view you as a team. Surf nazis will avoid you because they know that to fight one of you is to fight both of you.

And, years later when you are 40 years old and you and your brah are sitting on a break somewhere listening to the younger guys yacking it up, you will smile and know deep in your soul that there is nothing finer than surfing and the people you do it with.

Sheet... 40... That was 12 years ago...

Mate, I punched out a security guard tonight who had a go at my mate...your post says it all. And being 38 and having to run like f**k from the cops was damn funny too. Thought those days had passed me by.

LOL! Wish I could have been with you to watch! Glad you managed to escape their clutches!

[perusurf]

To me I think it was the fact that i managed to stand up on my first wave and my bro-in-law (who was teaching me) was having no luck, kind of like it was meant to be....

dude.... that's pretty much my story, I was 11 when my brother-in-law, who was a pro-surfer, was teaching me and I stood up on my first try... it was awesome...

[Hang11]

LOL! Wish I could have been with you to watch! Glad you managed to escape their clutches!

It was on TV apparently - at the England v NZ cricket match on Saturday night, the camera zoomed into a corporate box at the back of the stadium, and showed two guys being cuffed and marched out Both colleagues. There was as much free booze as you could drink, so something was bound to happen. Was a quality 14 hour drinking session. I'm still feeling it now on Monday morning.

[Tenaciousgreen]

Good Thread

For me, I don't feel any kinda religious stuff, but I do forget about everything for the time I am out there. I love the ocean and miss it when I havn't been in for a while.

Since I moved to WA and started surfing properly (I mucked about occasionally before every now and again), my life has changed so much, work and possessions (except the board) are not important anymore, family and social time are really important.

Is the surfing responsible? No, but I know it's contributed.

[Silver Surfer]

For me its about the anticipation. Driving to the beach, playing cool sounds to get in the mood. First sight of the break. Getting changed and watching whats happening in the water. Running in and feeling the water first on your ankles etc etc. We came from the sea so we feel an natural afinity to it. It gives life and takes it away. Its a great way to switch off, just focusing on the waves, listening to nature, bet blood pressure etc gets lower and its a great workout! But even just sitting there on the board in the water, just you and the elements certainly puts everything in focus. I guess some people might label that as a "spiritual" experience, and I can see why. Then theres the getting out after a really awesome session, feeling really stoked, getting warm again, grabbing some food. And the after surf pints in the local!

Have I forgotten anything? Oh, yeah! The bit where you catch a wave, stand up, turn down one side and trim the wave for ages, without falling off! Thats the best bit!

[deaddreamer]

awesome replies bros the best saying is "god gave us the gift of surf and sex use it wisrly" well done

[Otter]

LOL! Wish I could have been with you to watch! Glad you managed to escape their clutches!

It was on TV apparently - at the England v NZ cricket match on Saturday night, the camera zoomed into a corporate box at the back of the stadium, and showed two guys being cuffed and marched out Both colleagues. There was as much free booze as you could drink, so something was bound to happen. Was a quality 14 hour drinking session. I'm still feeling it now on Monday morning.

Oh man! What an event! Glad you got off without a hitch! Wishing I could have been there to see it, what a crack up!

[Otter]

Otter we are lucky if we can hear the young guns yacking it up.

Yeah, I'm deaf in one ear and can't hear squat in the other! Didn't catch your post until just now, would have answered earlier...

None of my hearing loss is from surfing. Wife calls it "selective deafness."