by billie_morini » Fri Feb 22, 2008 6:39 am
Lately, I've been running into co-workers and colleagues that are surprised to learn I will only move my household or take a new job closer to surf. Presantly, I live in northern California. Of the places I can work in my particular engineering profession, I'm only interested in going to Santa Cruz, Ventura, San Diego, Hawaii, and Australia. I could have a new job tomorrow in which I'd return to Germany. When asked one month ago to join a firm there, I said, "You've got no surf!" My present employer asked me to move to Las Vegas. I said, "No, thank you." Co-workers and colleagues have asked, "Is sufing that important?" I say, "Yes." It has become a large component of my physical and mental health even though I have not been doing it all that long. Having been deeply involved in many forms of motorcycling and motorcycle competition for 35 years, it seems perfectly normal to me to love an activity so much, it is all you want to do. I've given up motorcycling having sold all 12 touring, racing and trials bikes in 2005. These leaves me with surfing, which is much less expensive and leads to greater fitness. In addition, it is something I can share with my wife. Given my age, fitness is pretty important. I've got a 61 year old buddy that lives and works in Santa Cruz. He has been since beginning his professional career and never left. He surfs at least 3 times a week and is as lean and fit as you can want to be. That's what I want.
Do you encounter people that don't understand it? I tell them it's not just the wave riding that makes it great. Although, you do get the same thrill when catching the wave perfectly and standing while dropping that you do when making a corner leaned way over on a motorcycle. Being out in the water is always fabulous. Seeing the wildlife is great. Driving to the surf and even getting cold afterwards is fun, too. Getting my ass kicked by a wave is a riot, as well. I've alwasy loved nature and the outdoors and the rougher things are, the better. When my wife and dog go surfing, too, it is even a greater high. I'm sure most of you will agree.
Ha, I remember when I motorcycled I'd encounter so many people that just didn't get it. When you ride you are in the scenary instead of passing it by in an auto with a rolled up window. When you tour, you see fabulous things and smell the smells. When you road race at Laguan Seca, Thunderhill, Buttonwillow, or Sears Point, it's a screaming charge. When competing in observed trials, it is intense concentation in beautiful outdoor settings. I've toured nearly all of the US, some of Canada, some of Mexico, and some of Germany by motorcycle. I commuted daily to work for more than 12 years in the rain and cold, taking the long way just to pick up fun county roads. Hardly anyone at work understood this. Now, they think I'm crazy because I will surf even if it is raining! And this is precisely what I will do this Saturday here in northern California.