by Sillysausage » Thu Feb 14, 2008 9:07 pm
by isaluteyou » Thu Feb 14, 2008 9:49 pm
Sillysausage wrote:a grom who gets excited and likes to exegarate a bit but hopefully its actually based on being true
by Hang11 » Thu Feb 14, 2008 9:57 pm
by perusurf » Thu Feb 14, 2008 10:25 pm
by Hang11 » Fri Feb 15, 2008 8:22 am
by CHarvey » Fri Feb 15, 2008 2:11 pm
by The Fafanator » Fri Feb 15, 2008 2:17 pm
by The Fafanator » Fri Feb 15, 2008 6:02 pm
by CHarvey » Fri Feb 15, 2008 6:34 pm
by The Fafanator » Fri Feb 15, 2008 8:09 pm
by perusurf » Fri Feb 15, 2008 9:22 pm
by brummie » Mon Feb 18, 2008 6:36 pm
Hang11 wrote:Reality
Hunting round the back of the car, finding a chuck of dirty wax under the burger wrappers, pulling bits off and sticking it in all the dings on my 7’6” Bic minimal, squinting into the rain and onshore gale, I think to myself, “f**k it’s a wave”.
There is a screaming onshore gale blowing, and the swell is 2ft at 3 seconds. I grab my suit, and put it on back to front, take it off, try again, bust the zip trying to do it up, and then end up with the worst rubber wedgie ever. My ct looks the shiz (truly the most satisfying part of the day), chase after my board as it blows off the roof racks, and try to walk over the wet rocks, slipping on the first, falling over like a sack of sh*t and bust one of my fins off, , put on my leash, snag it round a rock, get rinsed, paddle out some more, and knock another fin out on a submerged rock.
I battle through the onshore slop for 45 minutes, occasionally stopping to wipe the snot off my nose, until I am completely exhausted. Finally I sit comfortably outside and and then spend half an hour fighting the rip trying to get out the back again. With a few random peaks, breaking all over the place, I wonder if it was really worth the effort...
Then after a while, a big set rolls in. I let someone else take the first wave, and act like I really didn’t paddle for it but couldn’t catch it. I keep paddling as hard as I can, because now I’m in the impact zone and too scared to take the next one on the head. The wave picks me up, and as I get to the top I give one last paddle and go over the falls. Backwards. The wave takes me with a lot of power, grinds me into the bottom, and washes me up the beach, proving again that I am a snot ridden kook that had no business paddling out.
After four hours I manage to get out of my wetsuit, totally exhausted, thinking to myself, “maybe I should get a canoe”.
Hang11
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