Biggest mistake I ever made.

Have a chat about any general surfing related topics.

Biggest mistake I ever made.

Postby The Fafanator » Tue Feb 12, 2008 5:01 pm

I jut got out of the water and I just had the worst sesh in my life, here is what happened:

I got to the spot and I immediatly took my board and jumped in (biggest mistake ever) I paddled over the water, and then, when I was outside, a set came, I paddled for the first wave (mistake number 2) and pearled, and I just discovered it was really hollow today, when I got up after what felt like ages (but probably was more like 5 seconds, if that.) another one came and battered me (this one was atleast 1 1/2 times bigger) and after that another one (which was the biggest wave I ever seen, plus it was hollow and choppy, I could MABY take the size, but not in combination with the hollowness and the choppyness, and in addition to that the water was friggen cold) and one after the other it kept battering me, just giving me enough time to catch a breath or two, it is a wounder my leash held up, good thing I had a 15 mm thick leash. eventually the set ended and I found myself in a very sticky situation, in a (not very strong) rip that head out to outerpool, the biggest boneyard you've ever seen (double overhead that day) and the only way out is to paddle against the rip, or paddle in at outerpool, which was not an option. I paddled for like 15 minutes before I got in (more like washed in), jumbling over the rocks like some sort of ragdoll, as each broken wave hit me. After I scaled the few rocks I fell down on the sand completely exausted, and almost in shock.

Moral of the story: wait a few minutes to asses the conditions before you go in, don't paddle for the first wave of a set, esp if you just got in and most importanly, know your limits, espesially if you suck.
User avatar
The Fafanator
Local Hero
 
Posts: 329
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Thu Jan 24, 2008 3:47 pm
Location: Innerpool, getting my ass washed onto the rocks.

Postby BoarderDave » Tue Feb 12, 2008 5:06 pm

..You learned the hard way, but at least you learned.

Hope it gets better for you.
User avatar
BoarderDave
Local Hero
 
Posts: 352
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Fri Feb 08, 2008 4:15 pm
Location: Torrance, CA

Postby O_Danny_Boy » Tue Feb 12, 2008 7:12 pm

is this another poem or did it actually happen?
Last edited by O_Danny_Boy on Tue Feb 12, 2008 7:34 pm, edited 1 time in total.
User avatar
O_Danny_Boy
Local Hero
 
Posts: 473
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Fri Feb 02, 2007 7:31 am
Location: ireland

Postby Sillysausage » Tue Feb 12, 2008 7:14 pm

this is the one i thought was an english essay. i had my exams in the summer and this sounds like the 'creative writing' part. although i may be wrong, could be true
Sillysausage
SW Pro
 
Posts: 1185
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Thu Nov 16, 2006 6:56 pm
Location: East Coast, uk

Postby The Fafanator » Tue Feb 12, 2008 8:09 pm

This one is true, and I still am a bit shaken, but atleast I know it can't get much worse (I checked the surf report, today was 14ft at 9 secs, I wish I checked it before I went out.) and the part the rip was going to is useully about 2 times the size of innerpool, thank God I am fit.
User avatar
The Fafanator
Local Hero
 
Posts: 329
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Thu Jan 24, 2008 3:47 pm
Location: Innerpool, getting my ass washed onto the rocks.

Postby derbyshire surfer » Tue Feb 12, 2008 8:22 pm

Woah dude! You're like totally lucky to be alive!!!

Can you teach me how to 'jumble over the rocks' sounds like fun!!!

Have you ever heard of a U.K T.V show called 'Jackanory'??? You'd have been ace on it!!! :lol:
User avatar
derbyshire surfer
Local Hero
 
Posts: 295
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Tue Feb 14, 2006 8:07 pm
Location: Derbyshire

Postby isaluteyou » Tue Feb 12, 2008 9:19 pm

O_Danny_Boy wrote:is this another poem or did it actually happen?


:P :lol: :wink:

Cant add anything construction :wink:
User avatar
isaluteyou
Big Wave Master
 
Posts: 2189
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 1:41 am
Location: San diego - Ocean beach, Praying For Swell

Postby Sillysausage » Tue Feb 12, 2008 9:23 pm

well if it is true then you must be nuts surfing a reef after a couple of weeks. and it is obviously well over exagerated but there we go. i think that i have been nice to you so far...but going out in waves double overhead on a reef etc isn't right at your level...not even mine really. double overhead to you is how many feet? 5 seconds is long holdown...normally 2 seconds feels quite long.
Sillysausage
SW Pro
 
Posts: 1185
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Thu Nov 16, 2006 6:56 pm
Location: East Coast, uk

Postby RJD » Tue Feb 12, 2008 9:41 pm

I was surfing Jaws the other day & my gun snaped on the drop, got held down for about 2 min, 3 broken ribs & dislocated my shoulder, but it was nothing like that, your the dude faf.
RJD
SW Pro
 
Posts: 1373
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2005 7:37 pm
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand

Postby O_Danny_Boy » Tue Feb 12, 2008 10:12 pm

The Fafanator wrote:thank God I am fit.


:lol: :lol:

self praise is no praise but then again this is faf were talking about

ego check on isle 4 please
User avatar
O_Danny_Boy
Local Hero
 
Posts: 473
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Fri Feb 02, 2007 7:31 am
Location: ireland

Postby drowningbitbybit » Tue Feb 12, 2008 10:25 pm

:)
User avatar
drowningbitbybit
Surfing Legend
 
Posts: 6459
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Tue Feb 15, 2005 11:16 am
Location: Gold Coast, QLD, Australia.

Postby Phil » Tue Feb 12, 2008 10:41 pm

well if it is true then you must be nuts surfing a reef after a couple of weeks.


nah man he shreds 15 footers :lol:
User avatar
Phil
Big Wave Master
 
Posts: 2156
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Tue Jun 22, 2004 8:55 pm
Location: soon to be dropping in on DBBB

Postby pkbum » Tue Feb 12, 2008 10:53 pm

RJD wrote:I was surfing Jaws the other day & my gun snaped on the drop, got held down for about 2 min, 3 broken ribs & dislocated my shoulder, but it was nothing like that, your the dude faf.


I have respect for you. :bow: That's a very fatal accident.
User avatar
pkbum
SW Pro
 
Posts: 736
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Sun Nov 18, 2007 2:32 am
Location: Santa ana rivermouth, where the shi1s come out

Postby RJD » Tue Feb 12, 2008 10:55 pm

pkbum wrote:
RJD wrote:I was surfing Jaws the other day & my gun snaped on the drop, got held down for about 2 min, 3 broken ribs & dislocated my shoulder, but it was nothing like that, your the dude faf.


I have respect for you. :bow: That's a very fatal accident.


Cheers, I had trouble staying out of the whitewater too.
RJD
SW Pro
 
Posts: 1373
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2005 7:37 pm
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand

Postby Sillysausage » Tue Feb 12, 2008 11:08 pm

i think we had better stop being nasty now. we will get in trouble for bullying
Sillysausage
SW Pro
 
Posts: 1185
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Thu Nov 16, 2006 6:56 pm
Location: East Coast, uk

Re: Biggest mistake I ever made.

Postby Hang11 » Tue Feb 12, 2008 11:10 pm

The Fafanator wrote:good thing I had a 15 mm thick leash


There's your problem, I've never heard of one that thick, but if you have got one that size, you won't be paddling anywhere fast with it hanging off the back of your board.
User avatar
Hang11
SW Pro
 
Posts: 960
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Apr 16, 2007 12:03 am
Location: smoko

Postby O_Danny_Boy » Tue Feb 12, 2008 11:14 pm

Sillysausage wrote:i think we had better stop being nasty now. we will get in trouble for bullying


its a troll job
User avatar
O_Danny_Boy
Local Hero
 
Posts: 473
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Fri Feb 02, 2007 7:31 am
Location: ireland

Postby RJD » Tue Feb 12, 2008 11:16 pm

Image ?
RJD
SW Pro
 
Posts: 1373
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Mon Dec 05, 2005 7:37 pm
Location: Christchurch, New Zealand

Postby Otter » Wed Feb 13, 2008 3:21 am

God Bless ya Faf! Just be a bit more cautious before surfing in unfamiliar waters. If you get hurt, or quit surfing, this forum might get a bit boring! With you around, there's always something to write about!
User avatar
Otter
SW Pro
 
Posts: 765
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Fri May 21, 2004 2:17 am
Location: San Diego

Postby The Fafanator » Wed Feb 13, 2008 3:04 pm

Sillysausage wrote:well if it is true then you must be nuts surfing a reef after a couple of weeks. and it is obviously well over exagerated but there we go. i think that i have been nice to you so far...but going out in waves double overhead on a reef etc isn't right at your level...not even mine really. double overhead to you is how many feet? 5 seconds is long holdown...normally 2 seconds feels quite long.


It probably was 2 secounds then, all I know is it felt long and I was gaping for air when I came up, and when I looked around I wish I waited a bit before I went out. BTW it wasn't a reef, but a pointbreak, it useually is really predictable and kinda small (a 4 foot set now and then, and alot of 3 footers, or bigger, not as powerfull sets.) but there was a storm a week ago, producing the biggest most choppy conditions ever, and I thought it had setled by now, which it did, for 2 minutes untill it came back.

BTW also I am quite familiar to this place, but that was just weard, I hope the rocks didn't shift or something, that would suck.
User avatar
The Fafanator
Local Hero
 
Posts: 329
Likes: 0 post
Liked in: 0 post
Joined: Thu Jan 24, 2008 3:47 pm
Location: Innerpool, getting my ass washed onto the rocks.

Next

Similar topics

Return to Surf Chat