Surfing a dumping wave

[Thibb]

Probably another stupid question: how exactly do you take off on a dumping wave? I've tried to just paddle along with it as it gradually rises, but at that time it does not yet have enough power for me to try and surf it. Then at a certain point you feel it really rise beneath the board, and then the ocean appears 4-5 feet below me. Is that the point where I am supposed to push forward and drop down that hole (it looks like an abyss from up there)?

I usually pull back and watch it break violently as the top plunges down, considering myself lucky I am not down there. But I am not getting a lot of surfing done in this way...

Thanks for reading.

[drowningbitbybit]

Either take-off earlier, and then go down the line before it dumps.

Or surf somewhere that doesnt dump.

Dumpy waves can be very difficult to surf unless you're very fast on your feet and/or you dont mind getting a nailing every now and then.

If you're looking over an abyss thats about to dump, thats probably not the moment to be taking off

Unless you want to

[Thibb]

I'm a beginner: I'm guessing that what looks like an abyss to me may seem very reasonable to anyone else... But thanks for the reply, I'm looking forward to figuring this out.

[drowningbitbybit]

For a beginner, the very first place to start is on a broken wave... then you need to make quite a leap to a clean unbroken wave. What you dont want to be doing is trying to catch it as it breaks if its dumping.

If you're moving up from the whitewater, find a beginner-friendly break on a small, clean day. And remember to really paddle hard

[southcoaster]

do you mean the whole wave is just breaking at the same time? if so try it at a different time in the tide, where is th beach yo have been doing this?

[smallwavegrovellerchick]

what size board are you using? it's possible that a bigger board might make it easier to catch the wave earlier before it "dumps". the smaller your board, the later the take off, which can make for a more pitching take off. the larger your board, the earlier you can take off when the wave is still slopey, unless of course, you're surfing a fast pitchy wave.

the more you surf, the more comfortable and confident you'll become with your take offs.

[Aloha]

Are other people out there surfing this same type of wave? If there aren't then there's your answer. Sounds like a closing out shore break. If there are other people surfing the wave then it might be too advanced for you.

Sucky waves aren't very beginner friendly. Find yourself a wave that is fat (not very steep) and get yourself a longer board so you can paddle into it much earlier before it starts to break.

[Sillysausage]

dumping waves are usually hard to surf although they're fun, just be prepared to a longer hold down if its a sucky wave. it can also be good for getting some wipeout footage, but not so good for much else as its hard to surf unless youre pretty good

[surf patrol]

its always fun surfing shoredump, that is until your either ding yourself of your board (but it's still fun).

[Aloha]

If you still want to have a go then the trick is paddle hard and lean forward.
A common mistake is to lean back whilst paddling and whilst standing up. This will only slow you down and make you go over the falls.

Paddle like hell and pop up as quick as you can. If you lean forward and angle onto the inside rail the curve on the rail from the rocker will automatically make you turn and stop you from nose diving. That's if you do it right. If the wave is too short and hollow then you might still nose dive so you will have to angle more on the take off.

If you are still learning and slow to pop up then don't bother you'll just ding your board or hurt yourself.

If you find you aren't making it then kick/push away your board as far away from you as possible as you go over the falls.

[Thibb]

Thanks for the replies all, I was on holidays so I am just reading all this now. Gonna try to make it work this week if the conditions allow it!!

[Sillysausage]

oh another tip, be careful because if it's shallow, make sure you put your hand out to cover your head (protect your neck) and make sure someone gets some wipeout footage

[el_timmo]

in my experience (cause I like to surf crappy waves like that sometimes) you have to paddle hard like the devil's dogs are chasing you to bite your balls off, and as soon as you get a little push, pop up super fast and then just tuck in and let the wave dump over your head. So much fun sometimes!